Honda Accord
Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to guide for replacing the front
brake pads on a 2008 to 2011 Honda Accord with pictures & step by step
instructions.
| Please note, I am not a professional mechanic. This guide is for illustrative purposes only. If you have any doubts, do not proceed and consult with your dealership. I assume no responsibility for damage to your vehicle, persons, property or pets. | ||||
 Accord Front Wheel |
 Loosening Lug Nuts |
 Jack & Jack Stands |
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 Car Jacked Up |
 Remove 5 Lug Nuts |
 Wheel Removed |
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| The first step is to slightly loosen the five lug nuts on each front wheel with the lug nut wrench located on top of the spare tire in the car's trunk. Then jack up the side of the car and secure it with a jack stand. I prefer to work on one wheel at a time and secure that corner of the car with both of my jack stands for extra safety. Next remove the lug nuts and pull off the front wheel to reveal the brake caliper and rotor. | ||||
 Rotor & Caliper |
 Top of Caliper |
 12mm Lower Caliper Bolt |
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| To access the brake pads in the front caliper, you'll need to remove the lower caliper bolt with a 12mm socket or wrench. The bolt head faces inwards to the wheel well of the car on the back side of the caliper. After removing the lower caliper bolt, rotate the caliper upwards off the pads and rotor. If the caliper doesn't remain in the up position by itself, secure it with some twine to the suspension to prevent it from crashing down on your fingers. | ||||
 12mm Bolt Removed |
 Raise Caliper Up |
 Attach C Clamp |
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| In order for the new and thicker brake pads to fit into the caliper, you'll need to place one of the old pads and a "C" clamp on the brake caliper piston and very slowly push it back. Be sure to remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay to prevent pressure from building up in the brake fluid lines while you compress the caliper piston back. | ||||
 Brake Fluid Reservoir |
 Remove Reservoir Cap |
 Brake Parts Cleaner Spray |
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| Once the brake caliper piston is pushed in just far enough for the caliper to fit over the new brake pads, check that the brake fluid in the reservoir is at the "Max" level. If it is above it, remove a bit with a spray bottle head, a turkey baster, or soak some up with a paper towel. If the level is too low, add a bit of fresh DOT3 brake fluid until it reaches the cold "Max" line. | ||||
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 CRC Disc Brake Quiet |
 Brake Pads Removed |
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| Before installing the new brake pads, clean the caliper and rotor with some brake parts cleaner spray. If your car is prone to brake squealing, apply a product such as the CRC Disc Brake Quiet gel to the back of the new pads where they come in contact with the caliper. | ||||
 Wear Indicator Bar |
 Insert New Brake Pads |
 Lower Brake Caliper |
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| Attach the wear
indicator bar from the old brake pad to the top of the new interior brake
pad. Then slide the new brake pads into place against the rotor. They only
go in one way, so don't force the pads in which may damage the anti-rattle
clips. With the pads securely in place, lower the caliper down over the new pads and onto the rotor. Make sure that the lower caliper pin's dust boot lines up with the notch on the caliper body. Then tighten the 12mm caliper bolt to just past hand tight. It's best to tighten the brake caliper bolt with a torque wrench to the torque setting specified in your vehicle's service manual. |
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 Brake Caliper In Place |
 Line Up Caliper Pin Dust Boot |
 Tighten 12mm Bolt |
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| If your brake pedal
felt soft or "mushy" or the brakes were prone to "fading" before you changed
the pads, this is a good time to bleed the brake lines to remove impurities
or moisture in the brake fluid. Check out my
Brake Line Bleeding Guide for more info on that subject. If your car shakes or vibrates while braking, you should either have the brake rotors "turned" at a repair shop or just replace them altogether depending on your vehicle's mileage. To break in the new brake pads, just drive
normally for a few hundred miles to allow the brake pad material to evenly
transfer onto the rotors. This is called "mating" and helps the brake pad
and rotor to stop the car smoothly and quietly. Try to avoid hard braking or
"panic stops" during the break-in period to prevent "brake pad glazing"
which can result in noisy brakes that don't stop well. |
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| For more of my
automotive how-to guides and product review, click on the following links:
Honda Accord Engine Oil Change Guide,
Honda
Accord Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide,
Honda
Accord Headlight Bulbs Replacement Guide,
Honda
Accord PCV Valve Replacement Guide,
Honda Accord Tail Light Bulbs
Replacement Guide,
Honda Accord Cabin Air Filter Replacement Guide,
Honda Accord Overhead Map Light Bulbs Replacement Guide,
Honda Accord Key Fob Battery Replacement Guide,
2009 Honda Accord Review,
WeatherTech FloorLiner Car Mats Review,
Meguiar's Headlight Restoration Kit Review,
Zaino Bros Show Car Polish Review,
Corroded Car Battery Terminal Replacement Guide,
Falken Ziex ZE-512 Tire Review,
K&N Air Filter Cleaning Guide, and
Fuzion ZRi Tire Review. |
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