Owners of other XV40 generation Camry vehicles equipped with the 2.4 liter 2AZ-FE inline four cylinder (2007, 2008 & 2009) or 3.5L V6 engines ('07-'11) should also find this guide to be helpful.

To complete this oil change procedure requires the following tools: a floor jack, jack stands, a 14mm socket with 3/8 drive ratcheting wrench, a 3/8" drive extension bar, a 64mm 14 flute cap type oil filter wrench (AST Tools # TOY 640), a used oil catch container, and an automotive funnel.

The 2007-2009 Camry with the 2.4L I4 requires 4.5 quarts of new SAE 0W-20 or SAE 5W-20 oil with a filter change.

The 2010-2011 Camry with the 2.5 I4 engine requires 4.7 quarts of new 0W-20 synthetic oil with a filter change. (3.5L V6 = 6.4 Quarts).

A few of the cartridge style oil filter elements compatible with the 2010-2011 2.5L I4 and 2007-2011 3.5 V6 engines include the following with their respective part numbers: Toyota 04152-YZZA1, Fram XG9972, K&N PS-7020, Purolator PL25608, Purolator Classic L25608, Beck Arnley # 041-8190, Fram Extra Guard CH9972, Wix 57047, Hastings LF607 and also the Mobil 1 M1C-251.

The 2007-2009 Toyota Camry with the 2.4L I4 engine is compatible with the following canister style spin-on oil filters: Purolator PL14477, Purolator Classic L14477, Mobil1 M1-103, Fram PH4386, K&N HP-1003 and Bosch D3325.

Bringing the engine up to operating temperature will help suspend any contaminants within the old motor oil and cause it to drain out more quickly.

Next engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from moving.

Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap by turning it counter clockwise.

Removing the oil filler cap will prevent a vacuum from forming when the drain bolt is removed and allow the old oil to drain out faster.

Raise the front passenger side of the vehicle with a floor jack and secure it with at least two jack stands.

Automotive ramps may also be used to raise the vehicle for easy access to the underside of the engine.

If you are small enough, you might be able to reach the oil drain bolt and oil filter housing without raising the vehicle.

Slide in below the passenger side of the engine and locate the black metal oil pan, silver metal oil drain bolt and black plastic oil filter cartridge housing. (Or traditional spin-on canister oil filter for the 2007-2009 2.4L I4 engine.)

The oil drain bolt faces towards the rear of the vehicle and the oil filter housing is on the other side of the oil pan closer to the front bumper.

Move the used oil catch container below the oil pan and unscrew the drain bolt the rest of the way with your fingers.

Be careful since the oil may be hot enough to cause burns depending on how long you warmed up the engine.

Allow the old motor oil to drain out for at least a few minutes before replacing the oil drain bolt and tightening it to just past hand tight with the 14mm socket.

(About 18 ft lbs of torque for the I4 engines and 33 ft lbs of torque for the V6 engines.)

If the washer or "gasket" on the oil drain bolt looks damaged, replace it with a new one.

The replacement drain bolt washer part number is Toyota 90430-12031.

Put it aside in a safe place. Move the used oil catch container to below the filter housing.

If your new cartridge filter element came with a drain tool, screw it into the drain plug opening and allow the oil to drain from the filter housing.

(The next few steps can be quite messy and are not pictured here in this guide.)

Remove and discard the old cartridge filter element.

Pull or pry off the old rubber o-rings with a pair of tweezers, needle nose pliers, or a small flathead screwdriver.

The larger o-ring is located below the filter housing's threads and the smaller o-ring is at the bottom by the drain plug's threads.

I recommend buying the genuine OEM Toyota 04152-YZZA1 oil filter since it has excellent reviews on Amazon.

Lubricate the new rubber o-rings with fresh motor oil and install them on to the filter housing.

Insert the new cartridge filter element into the filter housing.

Spin the filter housing back into place on the engine and tighten it either by hand or with the 64mm oil filter wrench to about 1/2 to 3/4 turn past hand tight.

Do not over tighten the filter housing which may damage it and cause leaks.

Re-install the oil filter housing drain bolt and tighten it to just past hand tight or about 25 ft lbs of torque.

Remove all of your tools and the used oil catch container from below the vehicle.

Carefully lower the car from off the jack stands and the floor jack.

(For the 3.5L V6, pour in about 6 quarts of the 6.4 quart total capacity.)

It is much better to have slightly less oil than needed in the engine than to overfill it. Having too much oil in an engine can put pressure on the seals or gaskets and cause leaks or other damage.

Run the engine for a minute, shut it off, and allow it to rest for a few minutes with the vehicle parked on a level surface.

Pull out the engine oil dipstick (bright yellow handle) and check the oil level.

Slowly add more oil and repeatedly check the dipstick until the oil level on it reaches the upper dot.

You may not need to pour in the entire 4.5, 4.7 or 6.4 quarts of new SAE 0W-20 oil to reach the upper dot on the dipstick that indicates it is full depending on how long you allowed the old oil to drain out.

Record the mileage and oil change details in your service record book.

To turn off or reset the Maintenance Required light (Maint. Reqd.) on the car's instrument panel, turn the key forward to the "accessory" position (first stop). Press and hold the reset button before turning the key one stop further to the "On" position without starting the engine. The "Maint Reqd" light will flash a few times before turning off.

For more, check out my Toyota Camry Repair & Maintenance Guides page.