The procedure is similar for many other General Motors vehicles including the Grand Am, Montana, Trans-Am, Firebird, Chevy Camaro, Corvette, Oldsmobile Aurora, Buick LeSabre, Regal, GTO, G6, G5, G8, Bonneville, Torrent, Aztek, Sunfire, Vibe, Grand National, Lucerne, Century, Park Avenue, Cadillac, Catera, DeVille, Eldorado, Seville, Escalade, STS, DTS, CTS, Cobalt, Malibu, Impala, Saturn Sky, Ion, Astra, Aura and Vue.

Please note, I am not an ASE certified mechanic. Proceed at your own risk. I am not responsible for damage to your vehicle, persons, pets or property.

I had been noticing a slight grinding noise coming from the brakes and they were also exhibiting some fade (mushy pedal) during spirited driving. I figured it was finally time to change the pads and bleed the brake lines.

This guide is specifically for changing the rear brake pads.

To view the Grand Prix Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide, click on the preceding link.

If you only need to flush your fluid, view my Pontiac Grand Prix Brake Lines Bleeding Guide.

Since I've been lovingly washing and waxing my car for 8 long years, I decided the first step was to protect the paint with some large plastic bags attached with painter's tape.

A few compatible sets of rear brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: ACDelco 14D698CH, Wagner PD698, Bendix D698CT, Dura International BP698, Wagner ZD698, Raybestos PGD698C and Monroe CX698.

I also picked up some CRC Disc Brake Quiet, Advance Auto Parts Brake Cleaner ($3.29) and a big 32 oz bottle of Advance Auto Parts DOT 3 Hi-Temp synthetic brake fluid ($4.29).

I've read that using the glycol based DOT "3" or "4" brake fluid is fine, but to avoid using DOT 5 which is silicone based and not compatible with the Grand Prix's braking system.

New brake fluid is completely clear unlike the black sludge in my master cylinder.

I gently loosened the plastic lug nut caps with the lug nut wrench and removed them by hand.

Then I cracked the seal on the lug nuts with the vehicle still on the ground.

I lifted it up until the tire spun freely, placed a jack stand under the car and lowered the floor jack.

I put two of the lug nuts back on the hub to hold the rotor firmly in place.

The brake lines should be bled anywhere from once a year to once every few years depending on how much you drive.

If you'd like to go ahead and do this, please visit my Pontiac Grand Prix Brake Line Bleeding Guide.

Make sure that the far side of the C clamp isn't pressing against anything sensitive like a brake line fitting.

I initially had some trouble getting the bolts to budge.

With the help of a rubber mallet and heat from a butane lighter, I was eventually able to get them spinning.

It also helps to just tap the caliper and the caliper bolt with the rubber mallet to loosen any sediment or Loctite threadlocker that may be preventing the bolt from rotating.

Keep the lighter away from any rubber or plastic!

The caliper is heavy and the first piece of old twine snapped, so I used a second piece as a back up.

Make sure that the rubber brake line does not become twisted, pinched or stressed in any way.

Don't throw them away just yet, they'll be needed for the next step.

In the comparison picture below, you'll see that the old pads probably still have a few thousands miles of life left in them.

I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet PD698 rear brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon. I also like how they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel due to the built in insulators.

First open the cap on the master brake cylinder reservoir and place a towel around it.

When the caliper piston is compressed, brake fluid will be pushed into the brake lines and back into the master cylinder.

If you haven't already, remove some old fluid from the master cylinder to prevent it from overflowing.

While I waited for the piston to gradually sink back into the caliper, I turned my attention to the old metal pad abutment clips.

I put on latex gloves to apply it since the label warns that it is a known carcinogen (cancer causing agent).

I spread a generous layer of the CRC Disc Brake Quiet across the metal piece on the back of the new brake pad.

Many people highly recommend that the brake rotors should be replaced or at least "turned" on a lathe when new brake pads are installed. I chose to skip this step. It has now been a few months since I performed this procedure and my brakes perform better than when the car was brand new. The braking feel is smooth with no vibrations and zero noise. So I got lucky. Just to be safe, you should have the rotors checked with a micrometer at a shop and either have the rotors "turned" or "cut" on a brake lather or just replace them with new rotors. Many newer cars are equipped with thinner rotors that have less material than the "beefy" ones on older cars.

I also sprayed some cleaner on the brake caliper and the piston.

I used this grease to lubricate the inside surfaces of the brake caliper, and the piston.

The CRC Brake Quiet was finally tacky after about 15 minutes.

I had trouble getting the new brake pads on the rotor with the new "anti-rattle" pad abutment clips.

Instead of fighting them, I re-installed the old clips which seemed to be in good shape.

I wore another pair of latex gloves to place the pads on the rotor to prevent getting any of the carcinogenic brake quiet on my hands.

Then I cut the twine holding up the caliper and lowered it down over the new brake pads on the rotor.

If the caliper won't easily go down on the new brake pads, the caliper piston may need to be compressed some more.

Make sure that the wear or "squeal" bar is located on the outside of the rotor and at the bottom.

I used the high pressure moly grease that came with the Satisfied brake pads to coat the caliper bolt with some fresh lubrication.

Well lubricated caliper bolts (a.k.a. "pins") will slide easily which keeps the brakes from dragging or getting stuck.

Then I removed the upper caliper bolt, applied some moly grease to it, and re-inserted it. Torque the caliper bolts down to 63 ft/lbs.

This side is done. Repeat the above steps to replace the rear brake pads on the other side of the car.

If you do a lot of stop and go driving, you may want to take off your rotors and have them "turned" or "cut" at an automotive service shop.

Another sign indicating that you may need to have your rotors replaced or turned is if the car shakes or vibrates when the brakes are applied.

To flush the fluid, visit my Pontiac Grand Prix Brake Line Bleeding Guide.

The procedure for the front wheels is very similar, but I created another specific page with those instructions.

Click on the following link for my Pontiac Grand Prix Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide.

To finish this job just replace the wheel, tighten the 5 lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs, and replace the plastic lug nut caps. It would be best to use a torque wrench.

I then moved on to the front pads.

If you're only replacing the rear pads, take the car for a test drive.

Start by pumping the brakes to seat the pads against the rotors. To "break in" or "bed-in" the new pads, you'll need to make a series of near-stops from about 30-40 MPH down to about 5-10 MPH.

Allow about 30 seconds in between near-stops to allow the rotors and pads to cool down.

Satisfied recommends repeating this procedure about 10 to 20 times to properly mate the new pads to the rotor surface.

The manufacturer also advises that you not tow or haul heavy loads and to avoid panic stops if possible in the first 300 KM (about 200 miles).

For more, visit the following links: Grand Prix Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide, Grand Prix Brake Line Bleeding Guide, Pontiac Grand Prix Engine Oil Change, Grand Prix Power Steering Fluid Maintenance Guide, GM Power Window Motor & Regulator Replacement Guide, Grand Prix "TCS OFF" SES & ABS Warning Light Troubleshooting Guide, GM 3800 Series II Engine PCV Valve Replacement Guide, Pontiac Grand Prix Alternator Replacement Guide, GM Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly Replacement Guide, Eaton M90 Supercharger Oil Change Guide, and the K&N Air Filter Cleaning Guide.

For more, check out all of my Pontiac Grand Prix DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.