MINI Cooper
Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front disc brake pads
on a 3rd generation 2014 to 2020 MINI Cooper with the part numbers.
2019 MINI Front Wheel |
Loosen Counterclockwise |
Raise Front of Vehicle |
This automotive
maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the 3rd
generation (2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020) MINI Cooper in
changing the front disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins. Owners of other MINI models or some smaller BMW vehicles such as the Cooper S, "JCW" John Cooper Works, Convertible, Hatch, Clubman, One, One First, One D, Coupe, Roadster, Countryman, Paceman, 3 Series, 318i, 328i, 320i, 323i, 325i, 330i, 340i, 230i, M240i, M2, M3, M4, i3, 228i, 230i, 128i, 135i, Z3, Z4 and Z8 may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools and other items needed to complete this front brake job procedure include a 17mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar (or a lug nut wrench), a floor jack, two jack stands, a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet, a 17mm wrench, a tube of brake caliper grease and an "F" clamp. A few compatible sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Monroe DX1308W, Power Stop Z23-1308 and Wagner ThermoQuiet MX1308. |
||
|
||
5 Lug Bolts Removed |
Rotor, Bracket & Caliper |
Loosen Lower Bolt |
The first few steps
are to park the car on a level surface, turn off the ignition and place the
transmission into park. Engage the emergency / parking brake and place wheel chocks on both sides of the rear tires to prevent the vehicle from moving. Slightly loosen the five lug bolts on the front wheel by turning them about 1/2 to 1/3 turn in the counterclockwise direction with the tire iron or a 17mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet. Carefully raise the front of the car with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands. I prefer to only work on one side of the car at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety. Spin out the five lug bolts and set them aside in a safe place. Carefully pull off the front wheel and set it aside. Once the front wheel has been removed, you'll be able to see the rotor, bracket, caliper and suspension. Loosen the lower caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) with a 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet. If the caliper slider pins moves as you are attempting to loosen the caliper bolt, hold the pin in place with a 17mm wrench. |
||
Spin Out Bottom Bolt |
Loosen Top Bolt |
Caliper Bolts Removed |
Then loosen the top
caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the
outside of the car) with the 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet. Spin out the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place. |
||
Pull Caliper Off Pads |
Rest Caliper On Rotor |
Remove Old Inner Pad |
Carefully pull the
caliper off the brake pads and out of the bracket. Rest the caliper on the top of the rotor or suspend it from the suspension with a bungee cord or some twine. Try to avoid pulling, bending, kinking or stressing the rubber brake fluid hose. Pull the old inner brake pad out of the bracket. |
||
Remove Old Outer Pad |
Pad Abutment Clips |
Remove Caliper Slider Pins |
Pull the old outer
pad out of the bracket. If your new set of front brake pads includes a bag of replacement brake hardware, remove the old pad abutment clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket. Clean off the bracket, rotor and caliper with brake parts cleaner spray. If your MINI has been exhibiting shuddering or vibrations in the front end while braking, you may need to replace the old OEM rotors with new rotors. To replace the rotors, remove the Torx set screw on the outer face of the rotor, remove the two bolts on the back side of the bracket. Remove the bracket and slide off the old rotor. If you have trouble removing the old rusted on rotor, hit it with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Tighten the bracket bolts to 110 Nm (81.13 lb-ft) of torque with a torque wrench. Apply some brake parts lubricant grease to the new pad abutment clips where they will come in contact with the bracket or the new brake pads. Push the new pad abutment clips (also known as "anti-rattle" clips) into the top and bottom of the bracket. Make sure the clips are fully seated. In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins or "guide bolts" need to be well lubricated. Pull the caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots. |
||
Lubricate & Replace Pins |
Attach "F" Clamp |
Plastic Access Panel |
Apply a thin layer
of brake parts lubricant grease to the smooth parts of both caliper slider
pins before pushing them back into their rubber dust boots attached to the
bracket. In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be pushed or "compressed" back. Attach the "F" clamp to the caliper and use the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston. To access the brake fluid reservoir, you'll need to remove the plastic cover on the 12V automotive battery and the plastic cover near the driver side cowl and the windshield. |
||
Remove Screws & Cover |
Remove Cowl Cover |
Brake Fluid Reservoir |
There are three 8mm
screws and two 10mm nuts that need to be removed in order to remove the
plastic panels and access the brake fluid reservoir. Twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction. Removing the cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the piston. |
||
|
||
Twist Off Reservoir Cap |
Compress Caliper Piston |
Replace Brake Fluid Cap |
Slowly turn the "F"
clamp handle in the clockwise direction to compress back the caliper piston. Repeatedly check the fluid level in the reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow. Continue compressing the caliper piston until it is just about flush with the rubber dust boot that surrounds it. Replace the reservoir cap as soon as possible by twisting it on in the clockwise direction. If the reservoir is below the "MIN" (minimum) line, refill it with some fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (easily absorbs moisture from the air), so it is very important that you don't leave the cap off for an extended period of time. |
||
Install New Inner Pad |
Install New Outer Pad |
Push Pads Against Rotor |
Install the new
inner and outer brake pads into the bracket. I recommend buying the Monroe DX1308W brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon. Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor. |
||
Lower Caliper Over Pads |
Spin In Bottom Bolt |
Spin In Top Caliper Bolt |
Carefully lower the
caliper over the new brake pads and into the bracket. Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins within the bracket. Rather than replace the "microencapsulated" bolts, just apply a small amount of Loctite Blue thread locking liquid to the old bolts. |
||
Tighten Upper Bolt |
Tighten Lower Bolt |
Rubber Valve Cap |
Tighten the upper
caliper bolt by turning it in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from
the outside of the car) with the 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet to
just past hand tight or about 25 lb-ft (35Nm) of torque. Then tighten the lower caliper bolt in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) with the 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet to just past hand tight or to the 25 lb-ft (35Nm) of torque specification in the service manual. Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, you may have a few air bubbles or some water in the brake lines. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located on the back side of the caliper just below the top caliper bolt. |
||
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Replace Front Wheel |
Spin In 5 Lug Bolts |
Push the front wheel back into place and spin in the five lug bolts a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction. | ||
Tighten Five Lug Bolts |
Lower Car From Stands |
Torque Lug Bolts |
Slightly tighten
the five lug bolts in the clockwise direction in a star or criss-cross
pattern with the 17mm socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar. Carefully lower the car from the jack stands by using the floor jack. Continue tightening the lug bolts in a criss-cross or star pattern to just past hand tight. It would be best to use a torque wrench in order to tighten the lug bolts to 101 lb-ft (140 Nm) of torque as specified in the owner's manual. Sit in the front driver's seat of the car and push down on the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Be sure to record the brake pad change in your vehicle's service records. For more,
check out all of my
MINI Cooper DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
If you found this guide to be helpful,
please consider making a small donation by clicking on the PayPal.com
"Donate" button located to the right of this paragraph. Thank you!
(Note: I am not a registered charity. Donations are not tax deductible.) |
Copyright 2024 © PaulsTravelPictures.com
All Rights Reserved ®
Paul's Travel Pictures is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. |
Privacy Policy About Paul & Author Contact Info