Owners of other Mazda vehicles such as the Mazda2, Mazda5, Mazda6, MX-5 Miata, Mazdaspeed3, CX-5, CX-7, CX-9, MPV, Tribute, RX-8, Axela, Demio, Verisa, Premacy, and Atenza may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The items needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, jack stands, an 8mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet, an 8mm hex head socket (or an 8mm Allen key), an automotive funnel, a new oil filter and 5 quarts of SAE 0W-20 oil.

A few compatible replacement canister style oil filters for the Skyactiv-G 2.0L I4 engine with their part numbers include the following: Fram PH6607, Mobil 1 M1-108A, Purolator PL14612, Bosch 3300, Wix 51348 and Mazda LF05-14-302B.

Warming up the engine will help suspend any contaminants within the old oil and allow it to drain out more quickly.

Then pop open the hood, twist off the oil filler cap and pull up the yellow handled engine oil level dipstick.

Removing the oil filler cap and pulling up the dipstick will help prevent a vacuum from forming and allow the old oil to drain out more quickly.

Raise the front passenger side of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with two jack stands or carefully drive the car up on to a pair of automotive ramps.

Remove the single screw at the rear of the oil service access panel with the 8mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning it counter clockwise. Set the screw aside in a safe place.

Move the used oil catch container to just below the black metal oil drain bolt.

Loosen the oil drain bolt with an 8mm Allen key or hex head wrench by turning it counter clockwise. Be careful since the old oil may be hot enough to burn your skin depending on how long you warmed up the engine.

Remove the oil drain bolt and allow the old oil to drain out for at least a few minutes or until it slows to an occasional drip.

Replace the oil drain bolt and tighten it just past hand tight or anywhere from about 25 to 30 ft lbs of torque.

Slide the used oil catch container to just below the oil filter.

Twist off the old oil filter in the counter clockwise direction and allow the old oil to drain out for at least a few minutes.

You may need to use an oil filter wrench, such as the Lisle 63600, to loosen the old oil filter.

Make sure that the rubber o-ring from the old oil filter is not still stuck to the engine.

Lubricating the rubber o-ring will allow the new filter to form a better seal and make it easier to remove at the next oil change.

Do not over tighten the oil filter or use the oil filter wrench to tighten it. Over tightening the oil filter can damage the rubber o-ring and lead to oil leaks.

Double check that the oil drain bolt and new oil filter are tight before moving on to the next steps.

Line up the black plastic oil change access panel and slide the tabs at the front edge in place on the engine underside cover.

Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Insert the automotive funnel in to the oil filler hole.

It is far better to have slightly less than enough oil in the engine than too much.

Temporarily replace the oil filler cap and push in the dipstick.

Start the engine, let it run for a few minutes, shut it off, and allow the oil to drain back to the oil pan for about 5 to 10 minutes.

Slowly add in more oil until the level on the dipstick reaches at or just below the upper metal dot.

You may not need to pour in the entire 4.4 quarts (4.2 liters) of new SAE 0W-20 oil depending on how long you allowed the old oil to drain out.

Once the oil level is correct, twist on the oil filler cap and replace the dipstick.

Be sure to record the oil change in your vehicle's service records. It's also a good idea to watch your driveway or parking spot for drops of oil and check the oil level on the dipstick several times during the next few days.

For more, check out my other 2010-2013 Mazda Mazda3 Repair & Maintenance Guides.