This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the second generation (2010, 2011, 2012 & 2013) Mazda 3 in changing the front disc brake pads.

Owners of other Mazda vehicles such as the Mazda2, Mazda5, Mazda6, MX-5 Miata, Mazdaspeed3, CX-5, CX-7, CX-9, MPV, Tribute, RX-8, Axela, Demio, Verisa, Premacy, and Atenza may also find these front brake job DIY instructions to be helpful.

The items required to complete this procedure include a floor jack, jack stands, a tire iron, a flathead screwdriver, either a 7mm hex head socket or a 7mm "Allen key" wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp and a tube of brake parts lubricant grease.

A few compatible sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers include the following: ACDelco 14D1044C or 17D1044C, Bendix D1044CT, Wagner QC1044 or ZD1044, Bosch BC1044, Power Stop 16-1044 and TRW TPC1044.

Then engage the emergency/parking brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent it from moving.

Slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the front wheel with the tire iron by turning them counter clockwise.

Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with two jack stands.

(I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time for extra safety.)

Spin off the 5 lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. Pull off the front wheel to reveal the brake caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

Be careful when removing the metal spring clip since it may fly off and hit you in the face. It would be best to wear safety glasses if you have them available.

Set the spring clip aside in a safe place.

Gently pry off the covers with the flathead screwdriver.

Use the blade of the flathead screwdriver to carefully push both of the combination caliper bolts and slider pins out of the caliper.

Note - The service manual's torque specification for tightening the front caliper bolts is 19 to 22 lb-ft (or 25 to 30 N*m).

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to each caliper slider pin and set them aside on a clean surface.

Pull the old outer brake pad out of the bracket.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper piston using the back of the old outer pad to evenly distribute the pressure.

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay, closest to the driver's seat, and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counter clockwise direction.

Removing the brake fluid cap will allow the fluid to more easily travel backwards through the system when you compress the caliper piston.

Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since brake fluid can easily damage painted surfaces.

Only compress the caliper piston as far back as its rubber dust boot while trying to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber boot.

Replace the brake fluid cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic and readily absorbs moisture from the air.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads.

Rotor Replacement Instructions

If your vehicle previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first front brake job on your Mazda3 and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, just remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Note - The service manual's torque specification for tightening the large front bracket bolts is 61 to 74 lb-ft (82 to 101 N*m).

Push the metal clip on the back side of the new inner pad in to the caliper piston.

Install the new outer pad in to the caliper bracket.

Lower the brake caliper in to the bracket.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with the corresponding bolt holes in the bracket.

Slide in the lubricated upper and lower caliper bolts/pins in to the back side of the caliper. Insert the threaded ends in first with the hex head end facing towards the center of the vehicle.

Note - The Mazda 3 service manual's torque specification for tightening the front caliper bolts is 19 to 22 lb-ft (or 25 to 30 N*m).

Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

Push the two black plastic caliper bolt covers back in place on the rear of the caliper.

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

Note - The Mazda3 service manual's torque specification for tightening the brake fluid bleeder valve is 62 to 79 in-lb (or 7.0 to 9.0 N*m).

Slightly tighten the 5 lug nuts in a "criss cross" or star pattern with the tire iron.

Continue tightening the lug nuts in a criss cross or star pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 75-80 ft lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Note - The owner's manual torque specification for tightening the lug nuts is 65 to 87 lb-ft (or 88 to 118 N*m).

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first several hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2010-2013 Mazda Mazda3 Repair & Maintenance Guides.