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Kenmore Electric Range 220V Power Connection Repair Guide
A pictures illustrated guide for fixing the oven heating element & range top burners when the clock/timer display still works.

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This step by step instruction guide was specifically written to assist owners of the Sears Kenmore electric range model # 911.95281891 in restoring the 220V power connection. This specific problem occurs when the stove is only getting a 110V power supply instead of the full 220V current that is required for proper operation. You'll notice that the electronics including the clock, timer, and red LED lights on the top of the unit are still functioning properly. The electric burners or "heating elements" on the stove top and the oven will both not turn on or heat up.

Before you call a service technician, repair man, or go to the appliance store to purchase a new range, try the following suggestions below. Please note, I am not a professional and I take no responsibility for any damage to your kitchen, appliances, home, property, pets or person. If you have any doubts, consult a professional repair company.

Clock & Timer Display Working
Electric  Burners Not Working
When we tried to prepare a meal one morning, I realized that both the oven's element and the range top burners were not heating up.

Since the clock/timer display was still working, I thought that perhaps a fuse located somewhere on the back of our Kenmore electric range had blown.

I also thought that maybe the appliance's electronics had simply just worn out after over two decades of reliable service.

After some quick research online, I learned that the problem could be a faulty power connection from the double pole 110V breakers. These two breakers provide the 220V current needed for the heating elements.

Since our Kenmore electric range (model # 911.95281891) was built in the early 1980's, I was eager to just go out and buy a new one from Sears.

Wires On Rear of Kenmore Range
110V/220V Power Connection Wires
My sensible side won and I began troubleshooting the problem by checking all of the wires, connections, buttons, knobs, plugs and anything else I could find to jiggle or tighten on the appliance.

On the rear of the range there were multiple wire looms that all seemed to look normal.

I was a bit concerned by the burn marks above the oven's light bulb, but I figured that it was just built up carbon deposits from many years of cooking food inside the oven.

Wiring Looms On Back
Oven Light Bulb Power Wires
Once I verified that everything on the back of the unit appeared to be in working condition, I began unscrewing the bolts that hold together the oven's electronic control unit (the top part with the knobs and LCD display).
Removing Oven Control Unit Bolts
Kenmore Model No. 911.95281891
None of the circuit boards under the oven control unit cover panel seemed to be burned out.

I even tried sniffing the electronics to try to detect a burning smell.

There was no sign of anything in the control unit being faulty so I bolted everything back together.

220V Appliance Electrical Outlet
Kenmore 110V & 220V Power Plug
I next turned my attention to the 220 volt 60hz power outlet and the power wire attached to the range.

I noticed a pitted burn mark on one of the blades of the range's power plug.

All three of the blades seemed a bit dull and covered with a light coating of oxidation (rust).

I used a thin wire brush to gently scour away the rust and remove most of the burn mark.

The exterior of the 220V outlet seemed normal but I still planned to check the connections inside the wall.

Power Wire Connections To Range
Main Power Breaker Outside
The first picture in the row above is of the three leads from the power wire that attach to the back of the appliance.

With the plug pulled out of the socket, I used a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten the positive, negative, and ground wires to the power block.

Power Breaker Box Inside Home
Oven Double 110V Pole Breakers
In preparation for the next steps, I went outside to the master power breaker on the side of our home near the air conditioner compressor/fan unit and turned off the power to the entire house.

Don't forget to turn off the main power breaker to your home before removing the metal safety panel on the interior breaker box!

Breaker Box Safety Panel Removed
220V Power Outlet Cover Removed
To verify that the electricity coming into the home had been disconnected, I went around flipping switches in the kitchen.

You can never be too safe when it comes to working with electrical components.

Once I was certain that the power was off, I removed the plastic cover on the 220V appliance outlet and the metal panel covering the power breakers.

Tighten Power Outlet Screws
Tighten 110V Range Breaker Screws
I pulled the 220V plug out of the recessed area in the wall and used a flat head screw driver to tighten the connection between the thick copper wires and the contact points on the socket.

Then I moved over to the double pole breaker (two 110V breakers joined together) in the breaker box that were labeled "oven".

I applied pressure on the wire forcing it into the breaker and used a flathead screwdriver to tighten the pressure plates on the wires.

Left Two Burners Working!
Right Two Heating Elements Working!
I couldn't think of anything else to tighten or check so I went outside and flipped the power to the house back on.

Then I plugged the range's 220V plug back into the wall outlet and turned the "oven" double pole breaker back to "On".

Finally, I turned the stove top heating elements to the "High" setting.

I partially hoped that the appliance would function properly after all my efforts, while I was also thinking it would be nice to have an excuse to buy a brand new modern electric range.

Within a few seconds, the burners started glowing bright red.

In the pictures above they appear to look purple because of the infrared (IR) radiation, which is visible to digital cameras.

The heating element inside the oven was also working properly again.

I'm not sure which of the connections I checked, wiggled, and tightened was the cause of the faulty 220V power connection, but the range is 100% operational again.

I hope that this guide has proven useful for you. For more of my home repair and maintenance instructions, check out the following links: A/C Run Capacitor Replacement Guide, Leaking Refrigerator Repair Guide, and Toilet Water Supply Valve Leak Repair Guide.

If you found this guide to be helpful, please consider making a small donation by clicking on the "Donate" button located to the right of this paragraph. Thank you!
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