Hyundai
Tucson Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front disc brake pads
on a second generation 2010 to 2015 Hyundai Tucson SUV with pictures.
2014 Tucson Front Wheel |
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts |
Raise Front Of Vehicle |
This
automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist
owners of the 2nd generation (2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 & 2015)
Hyundai Tucson SUV in changing the front disc brake pads and
lubricating the caliper slider pins. Owners of other Hyundai and Kia vehicles such as the Accent, Elantra, Sonata, Azera, Veloster, Tiburon, Genesis, Lavita, Veracruz, Santa Fe, ix35, Equus, Cadenza, Forte, Optima, Rio, Soul, Sedona, Sorento, Spectra and Sportage may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, a packet of brake parts lubricant grease, and a "C" or "F" clamp. The replacement brake pads part numbers vary by model year and whether your Tucson is "FWD" (front wheel drive) or "AWD/4WD" (all wheel drive / four wheel drive). |
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A few compatible replacement sets of front brake pads with their part numbers include: Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1295A, Wagner QC1447, ACDelco 17D1295CH, Bosch BP1295, Raybestos PGD1295C, Centric 105.12951 ProStop PD1295C, Beck Arnley 089-1784, Dura International BP1295 MS, Bendix 1295, Monroe GX1295 and Wagner QuickStop ZD1295A. Please verify the correct replacement part number for your Tucson by consulting your dealership's parts counter, calling an automotive parts store or by using the Amazon Part Finder before purchasing new brake pads. The part numbers are different for the earlier 2010, 2011 and 2012 second generation Tucson models compared to the newer 2013, 2014 and 2015 model years. The brake pads are also slightly different for the front wheel drive and the all wheel drive vehicles. |
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5 Lug Nuts Removed |
Rotor, Caliper, Bracket |
Front Brake Caliper |
The first few steps
are to park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the emergency / parking
brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent it from moving. Then slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron. Raise the front of the SUV with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands. I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety. Spin off the 5 lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. Remove the front wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension. |
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Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt |
Loosen Lower 14mm Bolt |
Spin Out Upper Bolt |
The front brake
caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side. Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench. Then loosen the lower 14mm caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle). |
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Remove Lower Bolt |
Two Caliper Bolts Removed |
Lift Off Brake Caliper |
Spin out the two
caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place. Pull the brake caliper out of the bracket and off the old pads. |
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Rest Caliper On Suspension |
Remove Old Outer Pad |
Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad |
Carefully rest the
caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord. Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket. Make a mental note of where the wear indicator or "squeal" bar is located on the old brake pads. On this 2014 Tucson FWD model, the wear bar was situated at the top of the inner brake pad. |
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Replace Pad Abutment Clips |
Pull Out Caliper Slider Pin |
Lubricate & Replace Pins |
If your set of new
front brake pads included new brake hardware, pull the old metal pad
abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket and
install the new ones in their place. In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins inside the bracket need to be well lubricated. Pull the caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots, apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to each before pushing them back in to their dust boots. |
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Attach "F" Clamp To Caliper |
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap |
Compress Caliper Piston |
In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper
piston needs to be compressed back. Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston. Move to the right rear area of the engine bay, near the driver's seat, and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction. Slowly turn the "F" clamp's handle in the clockwise direction to compress back the piston while repeatedly checking the level in the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately with a rag and flush the area with water. Brake fluid can easily damage painted surfaces. Compress back the caliper piston until it is flush with its rubber dust boot. Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot surrounding the piston. |
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Replace Brake Fluid Cap |
Install New Outer Brake Pad |
Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad |
Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid
is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture from the air). Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled. If your Tucson previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with new rotors. If this is the SUV's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in good condition, you should be able to just change the pads with excellent results. To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two 17mm bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads or to the rotor. Install the new brake pads in to the caliper bracket with the wear indicator bar situated at the top of the inner brake pad. |
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Push Pads Against Rotor |
Lower Caliper Over Pads |
Spin In Upper Caliper Bolt |
Push the two new
brake pads flush against the rotor. Carefully lower the caliper down over the new brake pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further. Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding bolt holes in the slider pins within the bracket. Re-insert the two caliper bolts and spin them in a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. |
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Spin In Lower Caliper Bolt |
Tighten Counterclockwise |
Tighten Lower 14mm Bolt |
Tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts by turning them counterclockwise
with the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench to just past hand
tight or about 20-25 ft-lbs of torque. Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. |
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Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Push On Front Wheel |
Spin On 5 Lug Nuts |
If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt. Replace the front wheel and spin on the 5 lug nuts by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. |
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Slightly Tighten Clockwise |
Lower SUV From Stands |
Torque To 65-80 ft-lbs |
Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern with the
tire iron. Carefully lower the SUV from the jack stands using the floor jack. Continue progressively tightening the 5 lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/8 to 1/4 turn past hand tight or about 65.1 to 79.5 ft-lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts. Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and firmly press the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, pour in some fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and not perform as well. It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight. For more,
check out my other
Hyundai Tucson DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
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