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Chevrolet Camaro Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on a 5th generation 2010 to 2015 GM Chevrolet Camaro with picture illustrated steps.

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2014 Camaro Rear Wheel
Raise Rear of Vehicle
Spin Off 5 Lug Nuts
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the fifth generation (2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 & 2015) GM Chevrolet Camaro in changing the rear disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other General Motors vehicles such as the Spark, Cruze, Malibu, Sonic, Impala, Traverse, Tahoe, Trax, SS, GMC Terrain, Acadia, Yukon, Buick Verano, Regal, LaCrosse, Encore, Enclave and the Holden Barina may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet, a 17mm wrench, an "F" clamp, a torque wrench and a tube of brake parts lubricant grease.

A few compatible replacement sets of new rear brake pads include the following with their part numbers: Wagner QuickStop ZD1337, Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1337, Centric 300.10530, Prime Choice SCD1337, ACDelco 17D1337CH, Wearever Platinum PXD1337H, ProAct ACT1337, Bosch BC1337, ProStop PGD1337, Akebono ACT1337 and Napa TS TS7653X.

5 Lug Nuts Removed
Rotor, Caliper, Bracket
Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt
The first few steps are to park the car on a level surface, make sure that the emergency / parking brake is not engaged and place wheel chocks on both sides of the front tires to prevent the vehicle from moving.

Slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the rear wheel by rotating them about 1/2 turn in the counterclockwise direction with a tire iron.

Then carefully raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety.

Spin off the 5 lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the rear wheel to reveal the brake caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

The brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts located on the back side of the caliper facing in towards the center of the vehicle.

Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

17mm Wrench - Hold Pin
Loosen Lower 14mm Bolt
Spin Out Upper Caliper Bolt
Then loosen the lower 14mm caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car).

If the caliper slider pins turn as you are attempting to loosen the bolts, hold them in place with a thin 17mm cone spanner wrench.

Remove Lower 14mm Bolt
Two 14mm Bolts Removed
Pull Off Brake Caliper
Spin out the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.

Carefully pull the brake caliper out of the bracket and off the old brake pads.

Rest Caliper On Suspension
Remove Old Outer Pad
Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad
Rest the caliper on the suspension or hang it from the spring with a bungee cord.

Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket.

Make a mental note of where the wear indicator or "squeal" bar is located on the old pads.

On this 2014 Camaro coupe, the wear indicator bar was situated at the bottom of the inner brake pad.

I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1337 rear brake pads since they have great reviews on Amazon. I also like how they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel due to the built in insulators.

Replace Anti-Rattle Clips
Pull Out Caliper Slider Pins
Lubricate & Replace Pins
If your set of new rear pads included replacement brake hardware, pull the old pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones in their place.

In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins (or "guide bolts") need to be well lubricated.

Pull the caliper slider pins (or "guide bolts") out of their rubber dust boots.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to each caliper slider pin before pushing them back in to their rubber dust boots.

Attach "F" Clamp To Piston
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
Compress Caliper Piston
In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston will need to be compressed back.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper piston and use the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure.

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay (near the driver's seat) and twist off the black plastic brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the line when you compress the piston.

Slowly turn the "F" clamp handle in the clockwise direction to compress back the caliper piston.

Repeatedly check the level in the brake fluid reservoir to make sure that it doesn't overflow.

Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since brake fluid can easily damage painted surfaces.

Continue compressing the caliper piston until it is flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it.

Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot surrounding the piston.

Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Install New Outer Pad
Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad
Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture from the air).

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

Brake Rotor Replacement Instructions

 If your Camaro previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or it may be easier and cheaper to just replace them with new rotors. If this is the car's first rear brake job and the rotors appear to be in good condition, you should be able to just change the pads with excellent results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then remove the one Torx T30 set screw before loosening the old rotor with a rubber mallet. Pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Replace the Torx T30 set screw and tighten it to the service manual specification of 89 lb-in (or 10 N-m).

The Camaro is equipped with "TTY" (torque-to-yield) bracket bolts that are tightened until they are deformed or "stretched".

GM says that these torque-to-yield bolts should not be re-used and must be replaced.

The rear brake caliper bracket mounting bolts part number is GM 11515781.

(Please double check the correct part number for your vehicle by entering the VIN number into a GM parts website.)

The service manual specification for tightening the caliper bracket bolts is 30 lb-ft plus 90 degrees. (Or 40 N-m plus 90 degrees.)

So after replacing the rotors, you would re-attach the bracket with the new bolts, torque them to 30 lb-ft and then continue rotating them another 1/4 turn which is 90 degrees.

An easy way to make sure you turn them almost exactly 90 degrees is to use a fine tip Sharpie marker to make a line from the bolt to the bracket after tightening them to 30 lb-ft of torque. Then continue turning the bolt until the line on the bolt is 1/4 of a turn past the line on the bracket.

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston.

Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads or to the rotor.

Install the new brake pads in to the caliper bracket with the wear indicator bar situated at the bottom of the inner brake pad.

Push Pads Against Rotor
Lower Caliper Over Pads
Spin In Upper Caliper Bolt

Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and in to the bracket.

If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further.

Line up the bolts holes in the caliper with their corresponding bolt holes in the caliper slider pins within the bracket.

Replace Lower 14mm Bolt
Tighten Upper Caliper Bolt
Tighten Lower 14mm Bolt

Spin in the the two caliper bolts in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) by hand a few turns to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the upper caliper bolt in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 20 lb-ft of torque.

It would be best to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the 14mm rear caliper "guide pin bolts" to the service manual specification of 20 lb-ft of torque (or 27 Newton meters).

If the caliper slider pins turns as you are attempting to tighten the caliper bolt, hold it in place with a thin 17mm cone spanner wrench.

Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

If you haven't already, replace the brake fluid reservoir cap.

Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Push On Rear Wheel
Spin On 5 Lug Nuts

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

Replace the rear wheel and spin on the five lug nuts in the clockwise direction by hand a few turns to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Lower Car From Stands
Torque To 110 ft-lbs
Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern with the tire iron.

Carefully lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Continue progressively tightening the five lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/8 to 1/4 turn past hand tight or about 110 lb-ft of torque.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

(Please double check your owner's manual for the correct torque specification for your vehicle. It may vary depending on the model year, trim level and wheel type. Some models have a lug nut torque specification of 140 lb-ft.)

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and firmly press the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If the level is low, pour in some fresh DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new rear brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2010-2015 GM Chevrolet Camaro DIY Repair Guides.

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