Owners of other General Motors vehicles from Chevrolet, GMC, Cadillac, Buick and Holden such as the Trax, Equinox, Traverse, Blazer, Tahoe, Suburban, Sonic, Cruze, Trailblazer, Spark, Malibu, Impala, Volt, Bolt, Corvette, Camaro, Silverado, Express, Regal, LaCrosse, Cascada, Encore, Enclave, Envision, Canyon, Sierra, Terrain, Acadia, Yukon, XT4, XT5, XT6, Escalade, CT5, CTS, XTS, CT6, ATS, Astra and Commodore may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

A few compatible replacement sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: ACDelco 14D1802CH, Bendix CFC1802, Raybestos EHT1802H, Power Stop Z23-1802 and Callahan CPK01057.

The tools and other items needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a Phillips head screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers and a tube of brake caliper grease or CRC Disc Brake Quiet.

The first few steps are to drive the truck on to a level surface, shift the transmission into park and turn off the ignition.

Engage the emergency / parking brake and place wheel chocks on both sides of the rear tires to prevent the vehicle from moving.

The lug nut wrench or "tire iron" is located under the rear passenger seats. The "bottle" style floor jack is situated behind the backrest of the rear seats.

Slightly loosen the six lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them about 1/4 to 1/2 turn in the counterclockwise direction.

Carefully raise the front of the truck with the floor jack until the front wheel is off the ground.

Securely support the truck by placing the two jack stands under the frame rail in front of and behind the floor jack.

Please do not solely rely on the floor jack to support the vehicle!

I prefer to only work on one side of the truck at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety.

Set them aside in a safe place.

Carefully remove the front wheel and tire.

Some home mechanics choose to place the wheel and tire under the frame rail as an extra backup support device just in case the truck falls off the floor jack and jack stands.

The old brake pads are simply held in place by just two retaining bars and a spring clip plate secured by two "R" shaped cotter pins or "split" pins.

Use a Phillips head screwdriver on the back side of the two metal bars to rotate the head of the "R" clips out towards the rear of the vehicle for easier access and removal.

Then pull the two retaining bars out of the back side of the caliper with the pliers.

Use a large flat head screwdriver to carefully pry back the old brake pads away from the rotor.

Try to avoid scratching, scoring or scraping the rotor if you don't intend on replacing it.

I would recommend using a Brake Pad Spreader to make the job easier. There are spreaders made specifically for four piston or "quad piston" calipers.

Slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the rear of the caliper.

Clean off the lug studs, caliper and rotor with brake parts cleaner spray. Avoid breathing in the brake dust or cleaner spray as they may be carcinogenic (cancer causing).

I recommend buying the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) brake pads which are part number ACDelco 14D1802CH.

Apply a small amount of brake caliper grease to the outer lip of each piston to help prevent brake squeal. You could instead use some CRC Disc Brake Quiet gel.

Avoid getting any grease or gel on the rotor.

If you've been feeling shuddering or vibrations in the front end when you step on the brake pedal, you may need to replace the old rotors with new rotors.

A few compatible replacement rotors with their part numbers include the following: ACDelco 177-1191 (OEM), Raybestos 582038FZN and Callahan CRK01460.

Orientate the new brake pads with the wear indicator bars situated at the bottom of the pads.

Place the spring clip plate against the back outer edge of the new brake pads.

If necessary, rotate the metal bars with the Phillips head screwdriver until the holes for the "R" clips are facing out towards the rear of the truck.

Double check that the spring clip plate, bars and "R" clips are properly installed.

If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid in the lines may contain a few air bubbles or some moisture. It would be best to bleed the brake fluid at this time and replace it with fresh fluid.

I recommend using the Allstar Performance Bleeder Bottle since it makes bleeding the brake lines an easy one person job.

Check out my Acura MDX Brake Line Bleeding Guide for more information on this topic.

There are two bleeder valves on the top of the front calipers with one located on the top inside corner and another on the top outside corner.

Double check that the new brake pads are properly installed and make sure that the four caliper bolts are properly tightened before moving on to the next steps.

Spin on the six lug nuts a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction to help prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss-cross" pattern with the tire iron.

Continue tightening the six lug nuts in a criss-cross or star pattern to about 1/8 to 1/4 turn past hand tight.

It would be best to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the lug nuts to the owner's manual specification of 140 lb-ft of torque.

Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and if necessary, pour in some new DOT 3 brake fluid until it reaches the "MAX" (maximum / full) line.

Sit in the driver's seat and firmly pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure.

Take the truck for a short test drive and listen closely for any strange noises that might indicate a problem.

It would also be a good idea to check your driveway, garage or parking spot for drops of fresh brake fluid and make sure that the lug nuts are still tight during the next few days.

Be sure to write down the brake pad change in your truck's service records.

Please check out all of my 2015-2019 GM Chevrolet Colorado DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.