Ford Fusion
Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front brake pads on a
2nd generation 2013 to 2016 Ford Fusion sedan with photo illustrated steps.
2014 Fusion Front Wheel |
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts |
Raise Front of Vehicle |
This
automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist
owners of the second generation (2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 and perhaps also the
revised 2017) Ford Fusion sedan in changing the front disc brake
pads. Owners of other Ford or Lincoln vehicles such as the Focus, Fiesta, C-Max, Mustang, Escape, Transit Connect, Edge, Flex, Explorer, Expedition, Taurus, F-150, EcoSport, MKC, MKZ, MKS, MKX, MKT and the Navigator may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a flathead screwdriver, a 7mm Allen Key wrench or a 7mm hex head socket, a "C" clamp and a tube of high temperature brake parts lubricant grease. A few compatible replacement sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers include the following: ACDelco 14D1665C, Motorcraft BR1164B, Wagner ZD1653, Centric (105.16530), Bendix # D1653 CQ and TRW Automotive TPC1653 Premium Ceramic. |
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Spin Off Lug Nuts |
5 Lug Nuts Removed |
Rotor, Bracket & Caliper |
The first few steps
are to park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the emergency / parking
brake and chock both sides of the rear wheels to prevent the car from
moving. Slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron. Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands. I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety. Spin off the five lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. Pull off the front wheel to reveal the rotor, bracket, caliper and front suspension. |
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Front Brake Caliper |
Caliper Bolt Dust Cover |
Pry Out Plastic Cap |
The front brake
caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts located on the back
side of the caliper. Gently pry out the plastic dust caps at the end of the bolt cover with a flathead screwdriver. |
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Dust Cap Removed |
Hex Head Caliper Bolt |
Loosen 7mm Clockwise |
Set the dust caps
aside in a safe place. Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 7mm Allen Key wrench or a 7mm hex head socket with a ratcheting wrench. |
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Loosen Lower Caliper Bolt |
Spin Out Clockwise |
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Then loosen the lower 7mm hex head caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the car). | ||
Caliper Bolt / Slider Pin |
Spin Out Upper Bolt |
Top Bolt Removed |
Continue spinning
out the two caliper bolts, which also act as the caliper slider pins, in the
clockwise direction. Set the two caliper bolts / slider pins aside in a safe place. |
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Gently Pry Off Metal Clip |
Metal Spring Clip Removed |
Pull Off Brake Caliper |
For the next step, I'd recommend wearing eye protection. Very carefully pry off the metal spring clip on the outer edge of the caliper with a flathead screwdriver. The spring clip might fly off and hit you in the face or eyes. Please be careful. Pull the brake caliper out of the bracket. Try to avoid kinking, bending or stressing the rubber brake fluid hose. |
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Rest Caliper On Suspension |
Remove Old Inner Pad |
Remove Old Outer Pad |
Carefully rest the
caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord. Pull the old inner pad out of the piston. It is held in place by three metal prongs on the back side. Remove the old outer brake pad from the caliper or the bracket if it remained there when you pulled off the caliper. |
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Attach "C" Clamp |
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap |
Compress Back Caliper Piston |
In order for the
caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the two caliper pistons need
to be compressed back. Attach the "C" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston. Move to the right rear area of the engine bay and twist off the black plastic brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction. Removing the brake fluid cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the piston. Slowly compress back the caliper piston by turning the "C" or "F" clamp handle in the clockwise direction. Repeatedly check the level in the brake fluid reservoir to prevent it from over flowing. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can easily damage painted surfaces. Once the caliper piston is flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it, you can remove the "C" clamp. Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot surrounding the caliper piston. |
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Replace Brake Fluid Cap |
Insert New Outer Brake Pad |
Metal Prongs On Inner Pad |
Brake fluid is
hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) so replace the reservoir cap as
soon as possible by twisting it on in the clockwise direction. Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled. If your Fusion previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just change the pads with great results. To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper pistons. Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads or to the rotor. Install the new outer brake pad in to the bracket. |
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Install New Inner Pad |
Lower Caliper Over Bracket |
Lubricate Caliper Slider Pins |
Line up the 3 metal
prongs on the back side of the new inner brake pad with the opening in the
caliper piston. Push the prongs in to the caliper piston to install the new inner brake pad. Carefully lower the caliper over the rotor and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress back the piston a bit further. In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins / bolts need to be well lubricated. Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the smooth parts of the two slider pins / bolts. |
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Spin In Counterclockwise |
Re-Insert Lower Bolt/Pin |
Spin In Lower Bolt/Pin |
Re-insert the two caliper bolts / slider pins and spin them in a few turns in the counterclockwise direction by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. | ||
Tighten Counterclockwise |
Torque To 20-25 Ft-Lbs |
Re-Insert Plastic Caps |
Tighten the two
caliper bolts in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of
the car) with the 7mm Allen Key wrench or a
7mm hex head socket to just past
hand tight or about 20 to 25 ft-lbs of torque. Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. |
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Caliper Bolt Covers Replaced |
Re-Attach Metal Spring Clip |
Spring Clip On Caliper |
Push the two
plastic dust caps back in to place over the caliper bolt housings. Carefully re-attach the metal spring clip to the outside edge of the caliper. |
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Rubber Valve Cap |
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Push On Front Wheel |
If your brake pedal
previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with
water or the brake lines may contain a few air bubbles.
It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper right next to the upper caliper bolt. Replace the front wheel and spin on the five lug nuts by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. |
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Spin On 5 Lug Nuts |
Slightly Tighten Clockwise |
Lower Car - Torque 100 ft-lbs |
Slightly tighten
the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern
with the lug nut wrench. Carefully lower the car from the jack stands by using the floor jack. Continue progressively tightening the 5 lug nuts in a "criss cross or star pattern to about 1/4 turn past hand tight or about 100 ft-lbs (or 135 Nm) of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts. Sit in the driver's seat of the car and firmly press the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 4 fluid. To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy or not perform as well. It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight. Be sure to record the brake pad change in your service records. For more,
check out my other
2013-2016 Ford Fusion DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
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