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Toyota Camry Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on an XV50 seventh generation 2012 to 2016 Toyota Camry with pictures.

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2013 Camry Rear Wheel
Pull Off Wheel Cover
Hub Cap Removed
This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the XV50 7th generation (2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2016) Toyota Camry in changing the rear brake pads.

Owners of other Toyota, Scion or Lexus vehicles such as the Yaris, Corolla, Matrix, RAV4, Prius, Tacoma, Tundra, Sienna, FJ Cruiser, Venza, Highlander, Avalon, 4Runner, Land Runner, Sequoia, IS 250, ES 350, GS 350, tC, xB, xD, iQ and FR-S may also find these DIY brake job instructions to be helpful.

The tools required to complete this procedure include a floor jack, jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket, a "C" or "F" clamp, and a packet of brake caliper grease or "synthetic rake parts lubricant".

A few compatible replacement rear brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1212, Akebono ACT1212, Raybestos PGD1212C, Bosch BP1212, ACDelco 17D1212CH, Centric 301.12120 or 105.12120, Power Stop 16-1212, and Wagner # ZD1423.

Slightly Loosen 5 Lug Nuts
Raise Rear of Vehicle
Spin Off Lug Nuts
The first step is to park the vehicle on a level surface. Then chock the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling backwards when you are replacing the rear pads.

Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the rear wheel with the tire iron by turning them counter clockwise a 1/4 turn.

Raise the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands. (I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time for extra safety.)

Spin off the five lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place.

Remove Wheel - Rotor
Rear Brake Caliper
Loosen Lower 14mm Bolt
Remove the rear wheel to reveal the brake caliper, bracket and rotor.

The rear brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side.

Loosen the lower caliper bolt with a 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt
Remove Lower 14mm Bolt
Two 14mm Caliper Bolts
Then loosen the lower 14mm caliper bolt before spinning them both out by hand.

Set the two bolts aside in a safe place.

Pull Off Rear Caliper
Remove Outer Brake Pad
Wear Bar At Bottom
Carefully pull the rear caliper off the old pads and out of the bracket.

Securely rest the caliper on top of the rear suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord.

Pull the old brake pads out of the bracket and make a note of how the wear or "squeal" bars are situated.

There are wear bars located at the bottom of both the inner and outer pads on this 2013 Camry LE.

I've had great experiences with the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1212 ceramic brake pads since they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel.

Inner Pad - Wear Bar
Replace Pad Abutment Clips
Remove Upper Caliper Pin
If your set of new rear brake pads came with new metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips, pull the old ones out of the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones.

In order for the brake caliper to operate smoothly, the upper and lower caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Carefully pull the upper and lower caliper pins out of their rubber dust boots and apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to each before pushing them back in. Try to avoid damaging the rubber dust boots.


Lubricate Caliper Slider Pins
Attach "C" Clamp
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be compressed backwards.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure.

Move to the right back side of the engine bay (close to the driver seat) and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap will allow the fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the caliper piston.

Compress Caliper Piston
Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Install New Outer Pad
Slowly compress the caliper piston until it is flush with its rubber dust boot. Try to avoid pinching or damaging the caliper piston's rubber dust boot.

Repeatedly check the brake fluid level in the reservoir while you compress the caliper piston to make sure that it does not over flow. Clean up any spilled brake fluid right away since it can damage painted surfaces.

Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture).

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

If your vehicle previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the truck's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Wear Bars At Bottom of Pads
Push Pads Against Rotor
Replace Rear Caliper
Apply a light coating of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as on the outer lip of the caliper piston.

Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads.

Insert the new pads in to the bracket with the wear bars orientated at the bottom of each pad.

Push the pads flush against the rotor.

Lower the caliper over the new pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further.

Insert Lower Caliper Bolt
Insert Upper 14mm Bolt
Tighten Upper Bolt
Line up the bolts holes in the caliper with the corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins.

Re-insert the two caliper bolts and spin them in a few turns by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the two caliper bolts with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning them counter clockwise (as seem from the outside of the vehicle) to just past hand tight or about 25 ft lbs of torque.

Double check that both the caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

Torque Lower Caliper Bolt
Rubber Valve Cap
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

Replace Rear Wheel
Spin On 5 Lug Nuts
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Push the rear wheel back in to place.

Spin on the 5 lug nuts by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern.

Lower Rear of Vehicle
Torque Lug Nuts
Push On Hub Cap
Lower the rear of the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack until the wheel holds enough weight to keep it from spinning.

Continue tightening the 5 lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 76 ft lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Sit in the driver's seat of the car and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, pour in some DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first several hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be squeaky and not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway or garage for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2012-2016 Toyota Camry DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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