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2012-2016 Toyota Camry Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to replace the front brake pads on an XV50 7th generation 2012-2016 Toyota Camry with picture illustrated steps.

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2013 Camry Front Wheel
Pull Off Wheel Cover
Hub Cap Removed
This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the XV50 7th generation (2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2016) Toyota Camry in changing the front brake pads.

Owners of other Toyota, Scion or Lexus vehicles such as the Yaris, Corolla, Matrix, RAV4, Prius, Tacoma, Tundra, Sienna, FJ Cruiser, Venza, Highlander, Avalon, 4Runner, Land Runner, Sequoia, IS 250, ES 350, GS 350, tC, xB, xD, iQ and FR-S may also find these DIY brake job instructions to be helpful.

The tools required to complete this procedure include a floor jack, jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket, a thin 17mm cone spanner wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp, and a packet of brake parts lubricant or "brake caliper grease".

A few compatible replacement brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1293, Raybestos PGD1222C or ATD1222C, Akebono ASP1222, ProAct ACT1222, Bosch BP1293, Centric 105.1293 and ACDelco 17D1222CH.

Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts
Raise Front of Vehicle
Spin Off 5 Lug Nuts
The first step is to park the vehicle on a level surface. Then engage the emergency/parking brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling backwards.

Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the front wheel with the tire iron by turning them counter clockwise.

Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

(I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time for extra safety.)

5 Lug Nuts Removed
Caliper, Rotor, Bracket
Front Brake Caliper
Spin off the 5 lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. Pull off the front wheel to reveal the brake caliper, bracket and rotor.

The front brake caliper is held on to the bracket by two bolts located on the back side of the caliper.

Loosen 14mm Caliper Bolt
Hold Pin With 17mm Wrench
Loosen Lower Caliper Bolt
Loosen the upper caliper bolt with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

If the caliper slider pin turns as you are trying to loosen the caliper bolt, hold it in place with a thin 17mm cone spanner wrench.

Loosen the lower caliper bolt with the 14mm socket, ratcheting wrench and 17mm cone spanner wrench.

Remove Lower 14mm Bolt
Remove Upper Caliper Bolt
Set Aside Two Caliper Bolts
Remove the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.
Lift Off Brake Caliper
Old Pads Exposed
Remove "V" Springs
Carefully lift the brake caliper off the old pads and out of the bracket.

Rest the caliper on top of the suspension or suspend it with a bungee cord.

The front brakes are equipped with two metal "V" springs that help keep the pads off the rotor when not braking.

Two "V" Springs Removed
Remove Outer Pad
Wear Bar At Top
Remove the two "V" springs and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull the old brake pads out of the bracket and make a note of how the "squeal" or wear bars are situated.

On this 2013 Camry, there are wear bars located at the top of both the inner and outer brake pads.

I would recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1293 pads. I've always had great experiences with them.

I also like how they don't require any shims, backing plates or disc brake quiet gel due to the integrated insulators.

Wear Bar On Inner Pad
Replace Pad Abutment Clips
Pull Out Upper Caliper Pin
If your new front brake pads came with new metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips, pull the old ones out of the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones.

In order for the brake caliper to operate smoothly, the upper and lower caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Carefully pull the upper and lower caliper pins out of their rubber dust boots and apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to each before pushing them back in. Try to avoid damaging the rubber dust boots.

Lower Caliper Slider Pin
Attach "C" Clamp To Piston
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be compressed backwards.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure.

Move to the right rear side of the engine bay (near the driver) and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counter clockwise direction.

Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap will allow the fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the caliper piston.


Compress Caliper Piston
Install New Outer Pad
Wear Bars At Top of Pads
Slowly compress the caliper piston until it is flush with the rubber dust boot.

Repeatedly check the brake fluid level in the reservoir while you compress the caliper piston to make sure that it does not over flow. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can quickly damage painted surfaces.

Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture).

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

If your vehicle previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the truck's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two 17mm bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Push Pads Against Rotor
Re-Install Metal "V" Springs
Upper "V" Spring Installed
Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as on the lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads.

Install the new outer and inner brake pads in to the bracket with the wear bars situated at the top of each one.

Push the two new brake pads flush against the rotor.

Re-install the two metal "V" springs with the narrow ends facing each other. Continue holding the pads against the rotor while you line up the caliper.

Lower Caliper Over Pads
Thread In Upper Caliper Bolt
Replace Lower Caliper Bolt
Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with the corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins.

Re-insert the two caliper bolts by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten Lower Caliper Bolt
Tighten Upper 14mm Bolt
Rubber Valve Cap
Tighten the two caliper bolts by turning them counter clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket, ratcheting wrench and 17mm cone spanner wrench to just past hand tight or about 25 ft lbs of torque.

Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before continuing on to the next steps.

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Replace Front Wheel
If you haven't already, replace the brake fluid reservoir cap.

Replace the front wheel and spin on the five lug nuts by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Spin On 5 Lug Nuts
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Lower Vehicle With Jack
Slightly tighten the 5 lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern with the lug nut wrench.

Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Torque Lug Nuts
Push On Wheel Cover
Front Brake Pads Replaced
Continue tightening the lug nuts in a criss cross or star pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 76 ft lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2012-2016 Toyota Camry DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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