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Mitsubishi Lancer Engine Oil Change Guide
How to change the motor oil and replace the oil filter in a 2008 to 2015 Mitsubishi Lancer with the 2.0L or 2.4L I4 engines.

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2015 Lancer MIVEC Engine
Twist Off Oil Filler Cap
Pull Up Oil Level Dipstick
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the eighth generation (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 & 2015) Mitsubishi Lancer in changing the motor oil and replacing the canister style oil filter on the MIVEC 4B11 2.0L or 4B12 2.4L inline four cylinder engines.

Owners of other Mitsubishi vehicles such as the Mirage, Lancer Evolution ("Evo"), Outlander, 3000GT, Diamante, Eclipse, Endeavor, Galant, Montero, ASX, Triton L200 and Raider may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The items needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 17mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet or a 17mm wrench, a used oil catch container, a new oil filter and 5 U.S. quarts of new SAE 0W-20 oil.

A few compatible replacement oil filters with their part numbers include the following: Mobil 1 M1-110, Purolator PL14610, Royal Purple 10-2867, Fram PH9688, Bosch 3323, K&N PS-1010, Wix 51356, Denso 150-1006, Mann-Filter ML 1008, ACDelco PF2057, Pennzoil PZ-37 and Mitsubishi MZ690116.

Raise Front of Vehicle
Under Engine Cover
Loosen 10mm Bolts
The first steps are to warm up the engine for a few minutes, park the vehicle on a level surface and then turn off the engine.

Warming up the engine will help suspend any contaminants within the old oil and also allow it to drain out more quickly.

Engage the emergency / parking brake and chock both sides of the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Open the hood, twist off the oil filler cap in the counterclockwise direction and pull up the oil level dipstick an inch or two.

Removing the oil filler cap and pulling up the dipstick will help prevent a vacuum from forming and also allow the old oil to drain out more quickly.

Raise the front passenger side of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands.

(Alternatively, you could use automotive ramps to raise the front of the car.)

Slide under the front of the vehicle with the 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench.

To access the oil drain bolt and oil filter, you'll need to remove the black plastic service panel on the under engine cover (A.K.A. "splash guard" or "skid plate").

Skid Plate Fasteners
Five 10mm Bolts Removed
Splash Guard Removed
Remove the five bolts by turning them counterclockwise with the 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench.

Set the bolts aside in a safe place.

Pull out the service access cover.

Oil Drain Bolt
Oil Filter Location
Used Oil Catch Container
Locate the black metal oil drain bolt on the rear edge of the oil pan.

The oil filter is located just in front of the oil pan.

Slide the used oil catch basin to just below the oil drain bolt.

Loosen 17mm Oil Drain Bolt
Drain Out Old Oil
Spin Off Old Oil Filter
Loosen the oil drain bolt in the counterclockwise direction with the 17mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Be careful when you remove the oil drain bolt. The old oil may still be hot enough to burn your skin depending on how long you warmed up the engine.

Spin out the oil drain bolt in the counterclockwise direction.

Allow the old oil to drain out for at least a few minutes or until the flow slows to just an occasional drip.

If the drain bolt is equipped with a crush washer, inspect it and replace the washer if necessary.

Re-insert the drain bolt and tighten it in the clockwise direction to just past hand tight or about 29 lb-ft of torque.

Slide the used oil catch basin forward to just below the old oil filter.

Spin off the old oil filter in the counterclockwise direction. Allow the old oil to drain out from the filter receptacle for at least a minute or two.


Oil Filter Wrench
Dip Pinky Finger In New Oil
Lubricate New Filter O-Ring
If you have trouble removing the old oil filter, you may need to use an oil filter wrench such as the Lisle # 63600.

I recommend buying the Mobil 1 M1-110 oil filter since it has excellent reviews on Amazon.

Dip your pinky finger in to some new SAE 0W-20 oil and lubricate the rubber o-ring gasket on the new oil filter.

Lubricating the rubber o-ring on the new filter will allow it to form a better seal and also make it easier to remove during the next oil change.

Spin On New Oil Filter
Tighten Drain Bolt Clockwise
Re-Insert Plastic Tabs
Make sure that the rubber o-ring from the old oil filter is not still attached to the engine.

Spin on the new oil filter in the clockwise direction to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight.

Try to avoid over tightening the new oil filter to prevent from damaging the rubber seal, which will cause leaks, and also make it overly difficult to remove during the next oil change.

Double check that the oil drain bolt and the new filter are tight before moving on to the next steps.

Re-insert the plastic tabs at the front edge of the service access panel back in to place.

Spin In 10mm Bolts
Tighten Bolts Clockwise
Service Access Panel Replaced
Spin in the four bolts in the clockwise direction by hand a few turns to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the bolts in the clockwise direction with the 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench until they are snug.

Lower Car From Stands
Insert Automotive Funnel
Pour In New 0W-20 Oil
Lower the vehicle from the jack stands by using the floor jack.

Insert an automotive funnel in to the oil filler hole.

The oil capacity for the MIVEC 2.0L I4 engine for an oil change with filter replacement is 4.2 U.S. quarts (4.0 liters).

The oil capacity for the MIVEC 2.4L I4 engine for an oil change with filter replacement is 4.5 U.S. quarts (4.3 liters).

Slowly pour in only about 3.5 to 4 U.S. quarts of the new SAE 0W-20 oil.

It is far better to have slightly less oil than necessary in an engine than to run an engine that has been overfilled.

Running an engine that has been overfilled with oil may cause damage to seals, gaskets or other components.

Replace Oil Filler Cap
Check Dipstick Oil Level
Re-Insert Dipstick
Temporarily replace the oil filler cap and push down the dipstick.

Start the engine and allow it to run for a few minutes, turn off the engine, and allow the oil to drain back down to the pan for at least 5 to 10 minutes.

Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, re-insert it and pull it out again to check the oil level.

If necessary, slow in pour in more oil and repeatedly check the level on the dipstick until it reaches just at or below the upper metal hole which indicates the "Full" or "Maximum" line.

You may not need to pour in the entire 4.2 quarts (2.0L I4) or 4.5 quarts (2.4L I4) of oil in order for the oil level to reach the maximum line.

Once the oil is at the correct level, replace the dipstick and tighten the oil filler cap in the clockwise direction.

Be sure to record the oil change in your car's service records. It would also be a good idea to check your parking spot, garage or driveway for drops of fresh oil which may indicate a leak from the drain bolt or the new filter.

For more, check out my other 2008-2015 Mitsubishi Lancer DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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