Owners of other Dodge or Chrysler vehicles such as the Magnum, Challenger, 300, Caliber, Journey, Avenger, Nitro, Durango, Grand Caravan, 200 and Town & Country minivan may also find this guide to be useful.

To complete this front brake job procedure, you'll need the following items: new brake pads, a floor jack, jack stands, a 13mm socket or wrench, a lug nut wrench and a "C" or "F" clamp.

A few compatible sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Bosch BC1056, Power Stop 16-1056, Wagner QC1056 and ACDelco 14D1058CH.

Please verify the correct replacement part number for your vehicle by using the Amazon Part Finder website. The correct brake pads may verify depending on the model year, engine type, transmission type, trim level and whether the front brake calipers are the one / single piston or two / dual piston models.

Please do not solely rely on the floor jack to support the vehicle.

Then completely spin off the lug nuts and carefully pull off the wheel.

Locate the lower caliper bolt which is located on the rear side of the caliper facing the inside of the wheel well and remove it with a 13 mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

Support the brake caliper by securing it to the suspension spring with some twine or rope.

This will prevent the caliper from swinging down on top of your fingers or the rotor while you are completing the rest of the brake job.

If you have trouble removing the old brake pads, try wiggling them while simultaneously pulling them away from the rotor.

Be sure to make a note of where the wear or "squeal" bar is orientated on the old brake pads.

On this 2010 Dodge Charger, the wear bar was situated at the top of the inner brake pad as pictured below.

If your Charger exhibits shuddering, pulsating, vibrations or other strange behavior while braking, you should have the rotors "turned" (resurfaced). Although it may be less expensive in the long run to just replace the old brake rotors with new rotors. New brake rotors range in price from about $50 to $100 each.  If this is the car's first brake job and the rotors are in excellent condition, you should be able to just install the new brake pads with great results.

Use the back of an old brake pad and a "C" clamp to very slowly compress the brake caliper piston. Compress the brake caliper piston until it rests flush with the rubber dust boot.

To help reduce or eliminate braking noise, consider applying some CRC Disc Brake Quiet Gel or a similar product to the back side of the new brake pads where they come in contact with the caliper body.

Try to avoid touching or getting any cleaner or gel on the friction side of the new brake pads.

Be sure that the wear or "squeal" bar on the new brake pad is orientated in the same position as it was on the old pad.

Push the two new brake pads together until they rest flush against the brake rotor.

Pull out the lower caliper pin from the protective rubber boot to check the lubrication and add more if necessary.

If the lower pin was well lubricated, you can check the upper pin's lubrication by sliding the caliper body towards and away from you a few times to see if it moves smoothly.

If the lower pin needed some more grease, you should also remove the upper caliper bolt and pin to add more lubrication to it as well.

The caliper should fit easily over the new brake pads.

If you have trouble lowering the caliper over the new pads, the brake caliper piston may need to be compressed backwards some more with the "C" clamp.

(The 2006-2010 Dodge Charger caliper bolts should be tightened to about 16-20 ft lbs or 192 to 240 inch pounds.)

If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten the two caliper bolts to just past hand tight.

Double check that bolt the bolts are properly tightened before continuing to the final steps.

If you've ever noticed that your brake pedal has felt spongy or mushy, the old brake fluid may be contaminated with moisture or the brake lines may contain air bubbles. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time to flush out the old fluid and replace it with new DOT3 brake fluid. For more information, check out my  Brake Line Fluid Bleeding Guide.

Slightly Tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron in a criss cross or "star" pattern.

Then lower down the vehicle from the floor jack until the tire holds some weight and complete tightening the lugs nuts.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or air gun with a torque stick to tighten the lug nuts to about 100 foot lbs.

Double check that the lug nuts are tight before completely lowering vehicle from the floor jack.

Get into the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal a few times until the pedal feels firm.

Then check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and remove some if it is above the "COLD" line or add a bit of new DOT 3 brake fluid if the level is below the "COLD" level line.

To break in the new brake pads, drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, verify the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also double check that the lug nuts are still properly tightened.

Be sure to record the brake pad change in your vehicle's service records.

For more, check out my Dodge Charger Maintenance & Repair Guides page.