Honda Civic
2.0L I4 Engine Oil Change Guide
How to change the motor oil and filter in
a 10th generation 2016 to 2019 Honda Civic with the 2.0L I4 engine.
2016 Civic 2.0L I4 Engine |
Remove Oil Filler Cap |
Twist Off Counterclockwise |
This automotive
maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the tenth
generation 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019 Honda Civic in changing the motor oil
and replacing the oil filter on the Earth Dreams K20C2 2.0 liter inline four
cylinder engine including detailed instructions for removing the metal under
engine cover or "skid plate". Owners of other Honda or Acura vehicles such as the Accord, Insight, Clarity, Fit, HR-V, CR-V, Pilot, Passport, Odyssey, Ridgeline, ILX, MDX, RDX, NSX, RLX and TLX may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. A few compatible replacement oil filters with their part numbers including the following: Fram XG7317, Bosch 3323, Purolator PL14610, Mobil 1 M1-110, Wix 57356XP and Pennzoil HPZ-37. The oil capacity specification in the service manual for the Earth Dreams 2.0L I4 engine for an oil change with a filter replacement is 4.4 U.S. quarts (or 4.2L). So you will need at least 5 quarts of new SAE 0W-20 oil. The tools and other items needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a Phillips head screwdriver, a flat head screwdriver, a 17mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratchet, a used oil catch container, an automotive funnel and an oil filter wrench such as the Lisle 63600 (optional). The first steps are to warm up the engine for a few minutes, park the car on a level surface, turn off the ignition and shift the transmission into park. I also recommend engaging the emergency / parking brake and placing wheel chocks on both sides of the rear tires to prevent the car from moving. Warming up the engine will help suspend any contaminants within the old oil and also cause the oil to drain out faster. Then open the hood, twist off the oil filler cap in the counterclockwise direction and partially lift up the oil dipstick an inch or two. (The dipstick has an orange plastic handle.) Set the oil cap aside in a safe place. Removing the oil fill cap and partially removing the dipstick will help prevent a vacuum from forming and also allow the old oil to drain out more quickly. |
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Lift Up Oil Dipstick |
Front Jack Point |
Raise Front of Car |
Locate the front
jack point on underside of the car below the front driver and / or front
passenger door.
Carefully raise the front of the car with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands positioned under the frame rail. Please do not solely rely on the floor jack to support the vehicle! I chose to only raise the passenger side of the car. You may instead prefer to raise the driver side as well. |
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Metal Under Engine Cover |
Screws Front of Skid Plate |
Silver Bolt & Black Screws |
Slide under the
front of the car with the Phillips head screwdriver and a flat head
screwdriver. There is a metal engine under cover or "skid plate" that needs to be removed in order to access the oil pan, drain bolt and oil filter location. There are two silver metal Phillips head bolts and two black metal Phillips head screws on the very front engine of the service access cover. Then there are six total flat head 1/4 turn fasteners along the two sides and rear edge of the cover. |
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Front Driver Side Edge |
Black Screw Front Corner |
Black Plastic Hooks |
The cover is also held in place by some black plastic hooks. | ||
Silver Fasteners - Flat Head |
Loosen Counterclockwise |
Silver Bolt Removed |
Remove the black
metal screws at the front corners of the cover by turning them in the
counterclockwise direction with the Phillips head screwdriver. Remove the larger silver metal bolts at the front middle edge of the cover by turning them in the counterclockwise direction with the Phillips head screwdriver. |
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Second Silver Bolt |
Loosen Counterclockwise |
Two Screws & Two Bolts |
Set the two black screws and the two silver bolts aside in a safe place. | ||
1/4 Turn Counterclockwise |
Remove Metal Fastener |
Rear Passenger Side |
To remove the other
six fasteners, rotate them 1/4 turn (or 90 degrees) in the counterclockwise
direction.
Once the fastener has been unlocked, you will feel it drop down away from the cover. |
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Repeat the process to remove all of the 1/4 turn fasteners. | ||
Six 1/4 Turn Fasteners |
Slide Back Metal Panel |
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Set the six
fasteners aside in a safe place. (The picture above only shows five
fasteners.) At this point, you should have removed two black screws, two silver bolts and six 1/4 turn fasteners for a total of 10 fasteners. Carefully slide the metal cover back to release them from the black plastic hooks. Set the skid plate aside in a safe place. |
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Metal Cover Removed |
Silver Metal Oil Pan |
Silver Metal Oil Drain Bolt |
Once the cover is
out of the way, you'll be able to see the silver metal oil pan, the drain
bolt and the old oil filter. The silver metal oil drain bolt or "plug" is located at the rear of the oil pan pointing towards the back of the car. |
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Oil Filter - Front of Pan |
Used Oil Catch Container |
Loosen Counterclockwise |
The oil filter is
situated just in front of the oil pan. Slide the used oil catch basin to just below the oil drain bolt. Be careful when you remove the oil drain bolt. The old oil might still be hot enough to burn your fingers. Loosen the drain bolt by turning it in the counterclockwise direction with a 17mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet. Once the bolt is loose, carefully spin it out the rest of the way by hand. |
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Draining Out Old Oil |
Replace Oil Drain Bolt |
Slide Basin Forward |
Allow the old oil
to drain out for at least a few minutes or until the flow slows down to just
an occasional drip.
Inspect the metal washer or "gasket" on the oil drain bolt and replace it if necessary. Some people choose to re-use the washer for a few oil changes while others prefer to replace it every time. The genuine OEM replacement oil drain bolt crush washer part number is Honda 94109-14000. Make sure that the old washer is not still attached to the oil pan. Clean off the area around the drain hole with a paper towel or a clean rag. Spin in the drain bolt a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction to make sure it doesn't become cross threaded. Tighten the drain bolt in the clockwise direction with the 17mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet to just past hand tight. Try to avoid over tightening the drain bolt to prevent from stripping the threads in the aluminum oil pan. If you have a torque wrench, the service manual specification for the oil drain bolt is 30 lb-ft of torque (or 40 N-m). Carefully slide the used oil catch container forward to just below the old oil filter. |
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Twist Off Old Oil Filter |
Draining Filter Receptacle |
Dip Finger In New Oil |
Twist off the old
oil filter in the counterclockwise direction. If you have trouble removing a stuck or stubborn old oil filter that was over tightened at the factory a quick oil change shop, I recommend using the Lisle 63600 oil filter wrench. I love how the filter wrench adjusts to a wide variety of filter sizes and makes removing even greasy or oily filters very easy. Allow the old oil to drain out from the filter receptacle for at least a minute or two. Turn over the old filter and drain out the oil inside of it. Dip your pinky finger into some new oil and lubricate the rubber o-ring gasket on the new filter. |
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Lubricate Rubber O-Ring |
Twist On New Oil Filter |
Line Up Skid Plate |
Lubricating the
rubber o-ring on the new filter will help it form a better seal, prevent oil
leaks and also make it easier to remove during the next oil change. Make sure that the rubber o-ring from the old oil filter is not still attached to the engine. Clean the area around the oil filter receptacle and the threads with a paper towel or a rag. Twist on the new oil filter in the clockwise direction to about 1/8th to 1/4th of a turn past finger tight. Try to avoid over tightening the new filter which could cause damage to the rubber gasket and lead to an oil leak. Double check that the oil drain bolt and the new oil filter are tight before moving on to the next steps. Raise the metal under engine cover back into place. |
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Slide On To Plastic Hooks |
Re-Insert Fasteners |
1/4 Turn Clockwise - Lock |
Insert the black
plastic hooks into the openings in the metal cover. Slide the metal cover towards the front of the car to secure the black plastic hooks. Replace the six 1/4 turn fasteners and secure them in place by turning them 1/4 turn in the clockwise direction with the flat head screwdriver. |
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Rear Passenger Corner |
Tighten Black Metal Screw |
Tighten Silver Bolt |
Replace the black metal screws at the front outer corners of the cover by turning them in the clockwise direction with the Phillips head screwdriver until they are snug. | ||
Front Driver Side Screw |
Metal Cover Secured |
Lower Car From Stands |
Replace the two
larger silver metal bolts into the middle of the front edge of the cover by
turning them in the clockwise direction with the Phillips head screwdriver. Double check that all of the fasteners are secure. Carefully lower the car from the jack stands by using the floor jack. |
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Insert Automotive Funnel |
Pour In New Oil |
Replace Oil Fill Cap |
Insert the
automotive funnel into the oil filler hole.
The oil capacity specification for the Earth Dreams K20C2 2.0L I4 engine is 4.4 U.S. quarts (or 4.2 liters). It is much better to run an engine with less than necessary than to overfill it. I recommend only pouring in about 4 U.S. quarts of new SAE 0W-20 oil at first. Then temporarily replace the oil filler cap by twisting it on in the clockwise direction and push the oil dipstick down into place. Start the engine and allow the new oil to distribute throughout the engine for at least a minute or two. Turn off the ignition and allow the new oil to drain back down to the oil pan for at least five to ten minutes. |
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Check Dipstick Oil Level |
Replace Oil Dipstick |
Oil Change Complete |
Pull out the
dipstick, wipe it clean with a paper towel, fully re-insert it and then pull
it out again to check the oil level. If necessary, slowly pour in more oil (up to the 4.4 U.S. quarts total capacity) and repeatedly check the level on the dipstick until it reaches at or very close to the upper hole in the orange plastic tip of the dipstick. The upper hole indicates the "Full" or "Max" (maximum) oil level. Once the oil level is correct, replace the dipstick and make sure that the oil filler cap is tight. (Note - If your Civic has the smaller 1.5L turbocharged I4 engine, the oil capacity is 3.7 U.S. quarts or 3.5L.) Be sure to write down the oil change in your vehicle's service records. The owner's manual specifies that the oil change interval should be about 7,500 miles (or about 12,000 KM). To reset the oil life indicator percentage back to 100% and remove the "Maintenance Due Soon", "Maintenance Due Now" or "Maintenance Past Due" message and "A" (change oil) or "B" (change oil and filter) code from the gauge cluster's LCD display, follow these steps: 1. Turn the ignition switch to the "On" position but do not start the engine (or just hit the "Start" button once with your foot off the brake pedal). 2. Press the "Display / Information" button until the "wrench" icon appears. 3. Press the "Enter" button. 4. Press and hold the "Enter" button for at least ten seconds until the menu enters the reset mode. 5. Press the up or down arrows to select the maintenance item you'd like to reset. Or you can select "All Due Items". 6. Press the "Enter" button again to reset the maintenance item or reset them all depending on your previous choice. Please
check out all of my
2016-2019 Honda Civic DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
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