Next, use a "C" clamp and one of the old brake pads to very slowly compress the caliper piston back until it is just about flush with the rubber dust boot. Make sure that the brake fluid reservoir cap is loosened or removed to prevent a build up of pressure in the brake lines.

One optional step is to apply some high pressure moly grease to the metal edge of the caliper piston to help avoid braking noises. You can also apply some red CRC Brake Quiet or blue Permatex Disc Brake Quiet gel onto the back of the brake pad where it comes in contact with the caliper. Wipe off the brake rotor with some brake cleaner spray if you have it handy.

Also be sure to check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir. Remove or add fluid until it reaches the "MAX" line. Don't get any brake fluid on your paint since it will eat it! Then replace the brake fluid reservoir cap and pump the brake pedal a few times until it feels firm. Finally, reattach the wheels by tightening each of the five 21mm lug nuts. We used an air impact wrench with a 100 ft. lb torque extension bar. Normally, I just tighten the lug nuts by hand with a tire iron a 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight.

The break in procedure for these ceramic pads involve driving normally for a few hundred miles and avoiding hard or "panic" stops. Some people recommend performing a brake pad "bedding" by doing 10 to 20 near stops with moderate brake pedal pressure from 35-45 MPH down to 5-10 MPH with 30 seconds in between stops to allow the pads to cool.