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Nissan Rogue Spark Plugs Replacement Guide
How to change the spark plugs in a 1st generation 2008 to 2013 Nissan Rogue SUV with the QR25DE 2.5L I4 engine.

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2011 Rogue 2.5L I4 Engine
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Remove Air Intake Screw
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10mm Screw Removed

This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the 1st generation (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, & 2013) Nissan Rogue in changing the spark plugs in the QR25DE 2.5L I4 motor.

Owners of other Nissan vehicles with the QR25DE engine such as the Sentra, Altima, Frontier, Serena, Bassara, X-Trail, Teana, Presage, and Suzuki Equator may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

A few compatible replacement spark plugs with their part numbers are as follows: NGK (9029) DILKAR6A-11, Denso # 3439, and Pulstar Pulse gg1i.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a 10mm socket, a 9/16" spark plug socket, a ratcheting wrench, a six inch extension bar, anti-seize lubricant (optional), dielectric "tune up" grease, and a spark plug gap gauge.

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Lift Intake To Side
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Four Ignition Coils
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Press Release Button
The first step is to remove the single bolt on the upper air intake box or "plenum" that blocks access to the two spark plugs on the right (driver's) side of the engine.

You can remove it with either a Phillips head screwdriver or a 10mm socket with a ratcheting wrench by turning it counter clockwise.

If you have access to compressed air or a wet/dry shop vacuum, thoroughly clean off the top of the engine. This will help prevent any debris from falling into the cylinder head.

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Slide Off Power Connector
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Remove 10mm Screw
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Ignition Coil Screw Removed
Press the release button on the power connector and slide it straight off the ignition coil.

Remove the single screw holding the ignition coil in place with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning it counter clockwise.

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Twist Back & Forth
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Lift Out Ignition Coil
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Spark Plug Well
Gently twist the ignition coil back and forth a few times to make sure that the rubber boot is not stuck to the tip of the spark plug.

Lift the ignition coil out of the spark plug well and set it aside in a safe place.

(I'd recommend replacing one spark plug at a time to further reduce the change of dropping something in to the engine.)

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Loosen Spark Plug
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Spin Out By Hand
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Lift Out Spark Plug
Attach the 9/16" spark plug socket to the 6" extension bar and the 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Carefully lower the socket down in to the well and seat it on the top of the spark plug.

Loosen the spark plug by gently turning it counter clockwise.

If the spark plug won't turn, do not use excessive force or it may crack. Try spraying some penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Kano Kroil and wait 15-30 minutes or more before trying again. If you don't have any penetrating oil, try spraying some WD-40 or just warm up the engine for a few minutes to expand the metal engine block.

Once the spark plug is loose, detach the ratcheting wrench and spin it out by hand.



 

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NGK DILKAR6A11
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Spin In New Spark Plug
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Tighten New Spark Plug
Lift the extension bar out of the well and detach the old spark plug from the socket.

If the end of the old spark plug looks ashy white, it may have been exposed to high temperatures such as engine overheating or it is the incorrect heat range for your driving conditions or environment.

If the old spark plug is dark grey or covered in black soot, the engine may be burning oil and should be checked by a professional.

The new spark plugs should be pre-gapped at .044" from the factory. Do not adjust the gap of iridium spark plugs. If you have a spark plug gap gauge, verify that the gap on each new plug is .044". If the gap is incorrect, the plug should be exchanged for a new one.

Iridium spark plugs may seem expensive compared to the cheaper copper, nickel or platinum plugs but they can easily last up to 100,000 miles. Inexpensive plugs will need to be checked more frequently and changed at much shorter intervals.

Most spark plug manufacturers such as NGK, Denso, Bosch and ACDelco recommend that you should not use anti-seize lubricant on the new spark plugs since it can lead to over tightening. But many people insist that applying a tiny amount of anti-seize to the threads of a new spark plug can make it much easier to remove if it is not replaced again for 100,000 miles.

If you do apply some anti-seize to the threads of the new spark plugs, be sure to use only a small amount and wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Avoid getting anti-seize grease near the electrode tip of the plug.

Take care to not over tighten the plugs by using your "mechanic's feel" or reduce the torque value on your torque wrench by 20%.

Insert the new plug in to the socket and make sure that the rubber insert or magnet is holding it securely. Carefully lower the plug down in to the well while trying to avoid hitting the electrode tip.

Spin in the new spark plug by hand until it makes contact with the engine block. Then attach the ratcheting wrench and slowly tighten it until you feel the crush washer compress. Continue tightening a fraction of a turn past that point.

Do not over tighten the spark plug. Over tightening the spark plug may strip the aluminum threads and/or crack the plug.

If you choose to use a torque wrench, tighten the new spark plugs to about 10-15 ft lbs if you used anti seize or 15-20 ft lbs if they are "dry". I'd recommend just tightening the plugs by hand so that you can feel when the crush washer compresses.

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New Plug Installed
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Dielectric Grease On Boot
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Insert Ignition Coil
Double check that the new spark plug is tight before continuing on to the next steps.

Apply a small amount of dielectric grease or "spark plug boot lube" to the inside lip of the rubber dust boot at the bottom of the ignition coil. This will help prevent it from becoming stuck to the new spark plug and keep out moisture.

Lower the ignition coil down over the top of the new spark plug and twist it a few times to spread the lubricant.

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Line Up Bolt Holes
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Snap On Power Connector
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Insert 10mm Bolt
Line up the bolt holes in the ignition coil and the engine block. Insert the screw and tighten it with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench.
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Tighten 10mm Bolt
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Replace Air Intake Screw
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Spark Plugs Replaced
Slide on the power connector until it clicks in to place.

Replace the single Phillips head / 10mm screw that holds the upper air intake box in place.

To test the new spark plugs, start the engine and listen for any strange sounds that may indicate a problem.

It's also a good idea to check that the spark plugs are still tight after the vehicle has been driven for a few hundred miles.

For more, check out my other Nissan Rogue Repair & Maintenance Guides.
 

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