Honda Odyssey
Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on
a 3rd generation 2005 to 2010 Honda Odyssey with the part numbers.
2008 Odyssey Rear Wheel |
Loosen Five Lug Nuts |
Raise Rear of Vehicle |
This
automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist
owners of the third generation (2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 & 2010)
Honda Odyssey minivan in changing the rear disc brake pads and
lubricating the caliper slider pins. Owners of other Honda or Acura vehicles such as the Accord, Civic, Crosstour, CR-V, CR-Z, HR-V, Fit, Element, Insight, Pilot, Ridgeline, Clarity, Crosstour, Elysion, ILX, TSX, TLX, TL, RLX, RDX, NSX and MDX may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. A few compatible replacement sets of new rear brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner PD1088, Bosch BP1088, Akebono ACT1088, Honda 43022-SHJ-X00, DuraGo BP1088 C and Brembo P28053N. The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 12mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratchet, a 17mm wrench, brake caliper grease and an "F" clamp. |
||
|
||
Spin Off 5 Lug Nuts |
Five Lug Nuts Removed |
Rear Wheel Removed |
The first two steps
are to park the minivan on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Then engage the emergency / parking brake and place wheel chocks on both sides of the front tires to prevent the vehicle from moving. Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the rear wheel by rotating them about 1/4 turn in the counterclockwise direction with the tire iron. Then carefully raise the rear of the minivan with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands. I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety. Spin off the five lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. Pull off the rear wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension. |
||
Rear Brake Caliper |
Loosen Lower Caliper Bolt |
Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt |
The rear brake
caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side of the
caliper with the bolt heads facing towards the center of the vehicle. Loosen the lower caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the car) with the 12mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet. Then loosen the upper 12mm caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the minivan). If the caliper slider pin turns as you are attempting to loosen the caliper bolts, hold it in place with a 17mm wrench. |
||
Spin Out Bottom Bolt |
Spin Out Top Bolt |
Caliper Bolts Removed |
Spin out the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place. | ||
Lift Off Rear Caliper |
Rest Caliper On Suspension |
Bracket & Old Pads |
Carefully lift the
rear caliper off the old pads and out of the bracket. Try to avoid bending, kinking or stressing the rubber brake fluid hose. Rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord or some twine. |
||
Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad |
Remove Old Outer Pad |
Replace Pad Abutment Clips |
Remove the old
brake pads from the bracket. Make a mental note of where the wear indicator bar or "squeal bar" is situated on the old brake pads. On this 2008 Odyssey, the wear indicator bar was located at the bottom of the inner brake pad. If your new set of rear brake pads included replacement brake hardware, pull the old metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket. Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since inhaling brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled. Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the parts of the new pad abutment clips where they will come in contact with the bracket or the ends of the new pads. Push the new pad abutment clips into the top and bottom of the bracket. If your Odyssey previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or it would be easier to just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first rear brake job on your minivan and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results. To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two Phillips head set screws on the front of the rotor, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. Replace the two Phillips head set screws and the two bracket bolts. (The service manual specification for the rear bracket bolts is 41 lb-ft of torque.) |
||
|
||
Remove Caliper Slider Pins |
Lubricate & Replace Pins |
Attach "F" Clamp To Piston |
In order for the
caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well
lubricated.
Pull the caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots, apply some brake caliper grease to the smooth parts of each one and push them back into place. Avoid mixing up the orientation of the two caliper slider pins. On some Honda or Acura models, the caliper slider pins are specific to the top or bottom position. In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, you'll need to compress or retract back the caliper piston. Attach the "F" clamp to the caliper and use the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston. |
||
Remove Brake Fluid Cap |
Compress Caliper Piston |
Twist On Brake Fluid Cap |
Move to the right
rear area of the engine bay and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in
the counterclockwise direction. Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the system when you compress the caliper piston. Slowly rotate the "F" clamp handle in the clockwise direction until the piston is flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it. Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible by twisting it on in the clockwise direction. (Brake fluid is hygroscopic so it easily absorbs moisture from the air which can lead to reduced braking performance.) |
||
Install New Outer Pad |
Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad |
Push Pads Against Rotor |
Install the new
inner and outer brake pads into the bracket. The wear indicator bar should be situated at the bottom of the inner brake pad. Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor. |
||
Lower Caliper Over Pads |
Spin In Bottom Bolt |
Replace Top Bolt |
Carefully lower the
rear caliper over the new pads and into the bracket. Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins within the bracket. Spin in the two caliper bolts a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) to help prevent them from becoming cross threaded. |
||
Tighten Lower Bolt |
Hold Pin - 17mm Wrench |
Rubber Valve Cap |
Tighten the two
caliper bolts in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of
the car) to just past hand tight or about 27 lb-ft of torque. Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid might be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide. |
||
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Push On Rear Wheel |
Spin On 5 Lug Nuts |
The rubber brake
fluid bleeder valve is located just below the upper caliper bolt and is
covered by a rubber cap. Push on the rear wheel. Spin on the five lug nuts a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. |
||
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts |
Lower From Jack Stands |
Torque To 94 lb-ft |
Slightly tighten
the 5 lug nuts in a crisscross or star pattern with the tire iron. Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands by using the floor jack. Continue tightening the five lug nuts in the clockwise direction to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 94 lb-ft of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts. Sit in the driver's seat of the car and firmly press down the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. To break in your new rear brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well. It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway, garage or parking spot for drops of fresh brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight. Be sure to record the rear brake pad change in your minivan's service records. For more, check out all of my
2005-2010 Honda Odyssey DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
If you found this guide to be helpful,
please consider making a small donation by clicking on the PayPal.com
"Donate" button located to the right of this paragraph. Thank you!
(Note: I am not a registered charity. Donations are not tax deductible.) |
Copyright 2024 © PaulsTravelPictures.com
All Rights Reserved ®
Paul's Travel Pictures is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. |
Privacy Policy About Paul & Author Contact Info