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Honda Odyssey Spark Plugs Replacement Guide
How to change the spark plugs in a 3rd generation 2005 to 2010 Honda Odyssey minivan with the 3.5L V6 engine.

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2008 Odyssey 3.5L V6
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Engine Cover Fasteners
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1/4 Turn Counterclockwise

This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the third generation (2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 & 2010) Honda Odyssey minivan in checking or changing the engine spark plugs in the J35A6 or J35A7 (with VCM) 3.5 liter V6 motor.

Owners of other Honda or Acura vehicles such as the Accord, Civic, Crosstour, CR-V, CR-Z, HR-V, Fit, Element, Insight, Pilot, Ridgeline, Clarity, Crosstour, Elysion, ILX, TSX, TLX, TL, RLX, RDX, NSX and MDX may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The OEM iridium tipped spark plugs in this 2008 Odyssey were the NGK ILZKR7B11.

A few other compatible replacement spark plugs with their part numbers are as follows: Bosch 4308, Denso 5303 IK16, Champion RER8ZWYCB4 (9407) and Autolite XP5702.

The tools and other items needed to complete this procedure include a flathead screwdriver, a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 3/8" universal joint, a set of extension bars, a 3/8" drive ratchet and a tube of dielectric grease.

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Lift Front of Engine Cover
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Pull Off Rear of Cover
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Rubber Friction Fasteners
The first step is to release the two fasteners on the front edge of the plastic engine cover.

Rotate the two fasteners 1/4 turn in the counterclockwise direction to unlock them.

Gently pull up the front edge of the plastic engine cover.

Then pull up on the rear edge of the engine cover to release the two pegs or "spikes" that are secured into rubber friction fasteners on the top of the engine.

Set the plastic engine cover aside in a safe place.

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Top of Engine Exposed
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Front Three Ignition Coils
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Rear Ignition Coils
The transverse mounted 3.5L V6 engine in the Odyssey has three spark plugs on the front side (closer to the headlights) and the other three spark plugs on the rear side (closer to the firewall and windshield).

If you have access to compressed air or a wet/dry shop vacuum, I recommend cleaning off the top of the engine to help prevent from having debris enter the spark plug wells.

I also recommend only checking or changing one spark plug at a time to help further reduce the risk of having a foreign object enter the cylinder block.

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Front Left Ignition Coil
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Push In Release Tab
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Pull Off Power Plug
This procedure is much easier if you have a "swivel" universal joint and a set of extension bars in various sizes.

(The "wobble" type extension bars are even more useful for working in tight spaces.)

Push in the tab on the black plastic electrical connector before sliding it straight off the top of the spark plug ignition coil housing.

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Connector Removed
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Loosen Counterclockwise
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Spin Off Nut
Loosen the single nut that secures the ignition coil housing to the engine by turning it in the counterclockwise direction with a 10mm socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet or a 10mm wrench.

Carefully spin off the nut by hand to prevent from having it fall down into the engine bay.

Set the 10mm nut aside in a safe place.

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Single Nut Removed
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Pull Out Ignition Coil
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Universal Joint & Extension Bar
Gently pull the ignition coil straight out of the spark plug well.

Set the ignition coil aside in a safe place.

Attach the 3/8" drive ratchet to a short extension bar and the 5/8" spark plug socket.

(You may or may not need to use the universal joint for replacing the front three spark plugs.)



 

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Loosen Counterclockwise
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Remove Old Spark Plug
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Inspect Old Spark Plug
Insert the socket and extension bar into the spark plug well.

Push the socket on to the old spark plug.

Carefully loosen the old spark plug by turning it in the counterclockwise direction ("lefty loosey").

If you have trouble loosening the old spark plug, try to avoid using excessive force to prevent from cracking the ceramic portion of the plug.

You can try spraying in a small amount of penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or Kano Kroil down in to the spark plug well and wait a few minutes. Another method to try is warming up the engine for a few minutes to expand the metal engine block.

Once the old spark plug is loose, detach the ratchet and spin it out the rest of the way by hand.

Pull the extension bar, socket and old spark plug out of the well.

Remove the old spark plug from the socket.

Inspect both ends of the old spark plug socket for signs of discoloration or excessive soot buildup.

If the electrode end of the old spark plug appears to be ashy white, the plugs might have been exposed to high temperatures such as overheating or they might be the incorrect heat range for your driving conditions or environment.

If the electrode tip of the old spark plug looks grey or is covered in dark black soot, the engine might be burning oil and should be inspected by a professional mechanic.

If you have a spark plug gap gauge, check that the new spark plugs are gapped to the manufacturer's specification listed on the box. The OEM plugs should be gapped to 0.044".

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Spin In New Spark Plug
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Tighten Clockwise
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Apply Dielectric Grease
I recommend buying the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) iridium spark plugs that Honda installed at the factory which were part number NGK ILZKR7B11.

Push the new spark plug into the socket. Your spark plug socket should have a magnet or a rubber insert to hold it in place.

Insert the spark plug into the well.

Spin the new spark plug in the clockwise direction by hand until it makes contact with the cylinder head. Tightening the new spark plug by hand will help prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Attach the 3/8" drive ratchet to the extension bar and socket. Tighten the new spark plug to just past the point when you feel the new crush washer collapse.

The torque specification for installing new spark plugs is 13 lb-ft.

If you are re-installing the old spark plugs, just tighten them a small fraction of a turn past finger tight.

Try to avoid over tightening the spark plugs to prevent from cracking the ceramic part of the plug or damaging the aluminum threads.

Double check that the new spark plug is tight before moving on to the next steps.

Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the opening on the rubber dust boot at the bottom of the ignition coil. The dielectric grease will help keep out moisture and debris to ensure a reliable electrical connection.

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Re-Insert Ignition Coil
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Push On Electrical Connector
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Tighten Nut Clockwise
Re-insert the ignition coil into the spark plug well.

Rotate the ignition coil back and forth a few times to help spread the dielectric grease.

Push the electrical connector straight on to the ignition coil until it "click" securely into place.

Spin on the 10mm nut by hand a few turns in the clockwise direction to prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the nut in the clockwise direction with the 10mm socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet or a 10mm wrench until it is snug.

Try to avoid over tightening the nut to prevent from cracking the plastic ignition coil housing.

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Push On Engine Cover
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1/4 Turn Clockwise - Lock
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Spark Plugs Replaced
Line up the plastic engine cover and lower it into place.

Push on the back edge of the engine cover to secure the two rubber friction fasteners on to the pegs.

Then rotate the two fasteners on the front edge of the cover 1/4 turn in the clockwise direction to lock them in place.

Start the engine and listen closely for any strange noises that may indicate a loose spark plug or a disconnected electrical connector.

Be sure to record the spark plug change in your vehicle's service records.

For more, check out all of my 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.
 

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