Owners of other Honda vehicles such as the Civic, CR-V, CR-Z, Element, Fit, Insight, Odyssey, Pilot and Ridgeline may also find this guide to be useful.

The tools and other items needed for this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 12mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratchet, a "C" or "F" clamp and a tube of brake caliper grease.

A few compatible replacement brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner QC914, Akebono ACT914, Bosch BC943, Bendix D914CT CT-3, TRW TPC0914, Raybestos ATD914C and Centric Parts 106.09140.

Then jack up the side of the car and secure it with two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one wheel at a time and secure that corner of the car with both of my jack stands for extra safety.

Next remove the lug nuts and pull off the front wheel to reveal the brake caliper and rotor.

The bolt head faces inwards to the wheel well of the car on the back side of the caliper.

After removing the lower caliper bolt, rotate the caliper upwards off the pads and rotor.

If the caliper doesn't remain in the up position by itself, secure it with some twine to the suspension to prevent it from crashing down on your fingers.

Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket.

I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC914 brake pads since they have great reviews on Amazon. I also like how they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet due to the built in insulators.

Be sure to remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay to prevent pressure from building up in the brake fluid lines while you compress the caliper piston back.

If it is above it, remove a bit with a spray bottle head, a turkey baster, or soak some up with a paper towel.

If the level is too low, add a bit of fresh DOT 3 brake fluid until it reaches the cold "Max" line.

If your car is prone to brake squealing, apply a product such as the CRC Disc Brake Quiet gel to the back of the new pads where they come in contact with the caliper.

Then slide the new brake pads into place against the rotor.

They only go in one way, so don't force the pads in which may damage the anti-rattle clips.

With the pads securely in place, lower the caliper down over the new pads and onto the rotor.

Make sure that the lower caliper pin's dust boot lines up with the notch on the caliper body.

Then tighten the 12mm caliper bolt to just past hand tight.

It's best to tighten the brake caliper bolt with a torque wrench to about 26 ft-lbs of torque.

If your car shakes or vibrates while braking, you should either have the brake rotors "turned" at a repair shop or just replace them with new rotors depending on your vehicle's mileage.

Replace the front wheel and spin on the five lug nuts in the clockwise direction.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a criss cross or "star" pattern.

Lower the car from the jack stands by using the floor jack.

Tighten the lug nuts to about 1/4 turn past hand tight or about 80 ft-lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench.

To break in the new brake pads, just drive normally for a few hundred miles to allow the brake pad material to evenly transfer onto the rotors.

This is called "mating" and helps the brake pad and rotor to stop the car smoothly and quietly.

Try to avoid hard braking or "panic stops" during the break-in period to prevent "brake pad glazing" which can result in noisy brakes that don't stop well.
 

For more, check out my other 2008-2012 Honda Accord Repair & Maintenance Guides.