Owners of other Ford Motor Company vehicles such as the Lincoln Town Car, Navigator, Mercury Marauder, Grand Marquis, Fusion, Explorer, Expedition, Excursion, Escape, Thunderbird, Five Hundred, Fiesta, Escort, Focus, Edge, Flex, F-150, Taurus, Mustang, MKZ, MKX, MKS, and MKT may also find these rear brake job DIY instructions to be helpful.

The items needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, jack stands, a tire iron, a 14mm socket with ratcheting wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp, and a new set of rear brake pads.

A few compatible aftermarket rear brake pads for late model year Crown Victoria sedans include the Bendix MKD932, Akebono ACT 932, Wagner QC1040A, Raybestos ATD1040AP, Monroe DX932 or CX932, Motorcraft BRF-1040, Centric Parts # 106.09320 and Dura International BP932 C.

Then slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the rear wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack.

Securely support the car with two jack stands.

Spin the five lug nuts off and remove the rear wheel. Behind the wheel, you'll find the rear brake caliper, rotor, bracket, pads and suspension.

Loosen the bolts by turning them counter clockwise (as seen from outside the vehicle) with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

Gently pull off the rear brake caliper from the bracket and rotor.

To remove the outer brake pad, slightly loosen the two metal retaining clips with a flathead screwdriver before sliding it out of the caliper.

If your old brake pads are fitted with wear or "squeal" bars, make a note of how they are situated and install the new pads with the wear bars in the same position.

The wear bars on this 2011 Ford Crown Victoria LX are located at the top of the outer brake pad.

I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1040A brake pads since they have great reviews on Amazon. I also like how they have integrated insulators so you don't need backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel.

If your vehicle exhibits shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

Remove the old pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the bracket and replace them with the new ones if they were included in your brake pad kit.

In order for the caliper and thicker new brake pads to fit over the rotor, the rear caliper piston will need to be compressed back with the "C" or "F" clamp.

First remove the brake fluid reservoir cap by twisting it 1/4 turn counter clockwise. This will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the line while the piston is compressed.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the rear caliper piston using an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure. Slowly tighten the "C" or "F" clamp to compress the piston back until it is flush with the rubber dust boot.

Repeatedly check the brake fluid level in the reservoir while compressing the piston to prevent it from overflowing.

Carefully pull the caliper pins out of their rubber dusts and generously lubricate them with a high pressure moly grease or a silicone based synthetic brake caliper grease.

Then gently push the caliper pins back into their rubber dust boots.

Screw the brake fluid reservoir cap back in place as soon as possible since the fluid absorbs moisture from the air.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (may cause cancer) if inhaled.

Install the new inner brake pad by pushing the metal prongs into the void of the caliper piston. Slide the outer pad in place with the two metal retaining clips over the outside of the caliper.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with the bolt holes in the bracket.

Tighten the two caliper bolts with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 18-20 ft lbs of torque.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

If you haven't already, move to the engine bay and replace the brake fluid reservoir cap by twisting it on 1/4 turn clockwise.

Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack until the rear tire holds some weight. Progressively tighten the 5 lug nuts in a "criss-cross" or star pattern to about 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an air gun with a torque stick to tighten them to about 85-105 ft lbs of torque.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and press the brake pedal a few times to restore brake line pressure. Then check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.

To properly break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for a few hundred miles while trying to avoid any "panic" stops which may glaze over the new brake pads and cause them to be noisy and not perform properly.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also check that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other Ford Crown Victoria Repair & Maintenance Guides.