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Dodge Avenger Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on a 2011 to 2014 Dodge Avenger with photo illustrated steps and part numbers.

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2012 Avenger Rear Wheel
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Slightly Loosen 5 Lug Nuts
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Raise Rear of Vehicle

This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the updated (2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014) Dodge Avenger sedan in changing the rear disc brake pads.

Owners of other Chrysler Group vehicles with similar rear brake hardware such as the Dart, Challenger, Durango, Charger, Grand Caravan, 200, 300, RAM C/V Tradesman, Jeep Patriot, Compass and Cherokee may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket with  3/8" ratcheting wrench, a "C" clamp and a packet of brake parts lubricant grease.

A few compatible replacement new sets of rear brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Wagner ThermoQuiet PD1037, Wagner QuickStop ZD1037, Dura International BP1037MS, ACDelco 14D868CH, Centric 105.08680, Monroe GX1037, Bosch BE1037H, ACDelco 17D1037C and Wearever PNAD1037.

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Spin Off 5 Lug Nuts
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Lug Nuts Removed
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Pull Off Plastic Wheel Cover
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, make sure that the emergency/parking brake is not engaged and chock the front wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Then slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts by turning them in the counter clockwise direction with the tire iron.

Raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with two jack stands. I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety.

Spin off the five lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. Pull off the plastic wheel cover or "hub cap".

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Caliper, Rotor, Suspension
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Rear Brake Caliper
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Loosen Lower 14mm Bolt
Pull off the rear wheel to reveal the rear brake caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

The caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back of the caliper facing towards the center of the vehicle.

Loosen the lower caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction, as seen from the outside of the vehicle, with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

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Pull Out Combo Bolt/Pin
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Swing Up Rear Caliper
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Use 14mm Wrench
Spin out the lower caliper bolt, which also acts as a caliper slider pin, and set it aside in a safe place.

Loosen the upper caliper bolt with a standard 14mm wrench. A socket and ratcheting wrench won't be able to fit over the upper caliper bolt due to the brake fluid line being in the way.

If you only have a 14mm socket, you can simply rotate the caliper upwards until the upper caliper bolt/pin can be pulled out.

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Pull Out Upper Bolt/Pin
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Remove Old Outer Pad
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Metal Clips On Outer Pad
Carefully rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord.

Try to avoid stressing, bending or kinking the rubber brake fluid line.

Pull the old outer pad out of the caliper. You may need to pry back the metal clips on the back side of the old pad with a flathead screwdriver.



 

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Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad
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Attach "C" Clamp To Piston
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Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
Remove the old inner brake pad from the caliper bracket.

Make a mental note of where the wear indicator bar or "squeal bar" is situated on the old brake pads. On this 2012 Avenger, the wear bar was located at the bottom of the inner brake pad.

I've always had great experiences with the Wagner ThermoQuiet PD1037 brake pads and I really like how they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel due to the built in insulators.

In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the piston will need be compressed backwards.

Attach the "C" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston.

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counter clockwise direction.

Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap will allow the fluid to more easily travel backwards through the brake lines when you compress the caliper piston.

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Compress Caliper Piston
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Replace Brake Fluid Cap
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Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad
Slowly turn the "C" clamp's handle to compress back the piston while repeatedly checking the brake fluid level in the reservoir to prevent it from overflowing.

Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since brake fluid can easily damage painted surfaces.

Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot surrounding the piston.

Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air).

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

If your Avenger previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first rear brake job and the rotors appear to be in good condition, you should be able to just change the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads or to the face of the rotor.

Install the new inner brake pad in to the bracket with the wear bar situated at the bottom.

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Install New Outer Pad
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Lubricate Caliper Slider Pins
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Replace Rear Caliper
Push the new outer pad in to the caliper with the metal clips on the outside face of the caliper.

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the smooth parts of each of the two combination caliper bolts / caliper slider pins.

Lower the caliper down in to the bracket. If you didn't remove the upper caliper bolt, re-insert the upper slider pin and rotate the caliper down over the rotor.

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Re-Insert Caliper Slider Pin
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Tighten Upper 14mm Bolt
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Tighten Counter Clockwise
Re-insert the lower caliper bolt / slider pin and spin it in a few turns by hand to prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the two caliper bolts in the counter clockwise direction with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 32 ft-lbs of torque.

Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

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Rubber Valve Cap
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Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
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Replace Rear Wheel

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

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Push On Plastic Hub Cap
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Spin On Lug Nuts Clockwise
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Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Replace the rear wheel and push on the plastic hub cap with the cut out section for the tire valve in the correct position.

Spin on the 5 lug nuts in the clockwise direction by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern with the tire iron.

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Lower Car From Stands
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Torque To 100 ft-lbs
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Rear Brake Pads Replaced
Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack until the rear tire holds enough weight to keep it from spinning.

Continue progressively tightening the 5 lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/4 turn past hand tight or about 100 ft-lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and firmly push down the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure.

Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, pour in some fresh DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other Dodge Avenger Repair & Maintenance Guides.
 

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