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Chrysler 200 12V Automotive Battery Replacement Guide
How to change a dead 12 volt car battery in the wheel well of a 1st generation 2011 to 2014 Chrysler 200 with photos.

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Front Driver Side Wheel
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Loosen 5 Lug Nuts
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Floor Jack - Raise Vehicle

This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the first generation (2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Chrysler 200 sedan in changing a dead 12V automotive battery in the wheel well.

Owners of other Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep or RAM vehicles such as the Avenger, 300, Town & Country, Challenger, Charger, Dart, Durango, Journey, Grand Caravan, Patriot, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee, Compass, 1500, 2500, 3500, C/V Tradesman and ProMaster may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to replace the 12V battery include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 7mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench, a flathead screwdriver, a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench and a 10mm socket.

The Chrysler Group LLC brand OEM battery in this 2013 200 sedan is part number 56041380AE.

A few other compatible Group Size 86 replacement batteries include the EverStart MAXX-86 from Wal-Mart, AutoCraft 86-1, Napa BAT 7586 or BAT 8486, and Duracell SLI86 or SLI86M.

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Spin Off Counterclockwise
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5 Lug Nuts Removed
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Pull Off Plastic Wheel Cover
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the emergency / parking brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent it from moving.

Then slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the front driver side wheel with the tire iron.

Raise the front driver corner of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands.

Spin off the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the plastic wheel cover or "hub cap" and then remove the front wheel.

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Remove Front Wheel
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Pry Out Center of Fastener
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Remove Center Part of Fastener
Once the front wheel has been removed, you'll be able to access the wheel well liner or "splash guard".

There are 7 plastic pop rivet fasteners and three 7mm screws holding the wheel well liner in place.

Pry out the center piece of each plastic fastener first with a flathead screwdriver before removing the larger outer piece.

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Remove Larger Outer Piece
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Pry Out Other Fasteners
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Continue removing all seven of the plastic pop rivet fasteners along the edges of the wheel well liner.
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Remove 7mm Screws
Once all seven of the plastic pop rivet fasteners have been removed, move to the outer edge of the wheel well liner.

Loosen the three screws along the outer edge of the liner by turning them counterclockwise with the 7mm socket and 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench.

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2nd 7mm Screw
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3rd 7mm Screw Removed
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7 Pop Rivets & Three 7mm Screws
Remove the three screws and set them aside with the 7 pop rivet fasteners.
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Remove Wheel Well Liner
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Plastic Splash Guard Removed
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Battery & Tray Exposed
Carefully pull the plastic wheel well liner away from the vehicle and set it aside in a safe place.

Once the liner or "splash guard" has been removed, you'll be able to see the OEM 12V automotive battery resting on a metal shelf.

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Loosen 13mm Bolt
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13mm Bolt Removed
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2nd Cross Brace Bar Bolt
The next step is to remove the lower bolt on the cross brace bar by turning it counterclockwise with the 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Loosen the upper bolt on the cross brace bar a few turns until the bar can be rotated down and out of the way.

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Hold Down Bar Bolt
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Remove 13mm Bolt
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Battery Clamp Removed
The battery is held in place by a metal hold-down bar with a plastic clamp on the top.

Remove the 13mm bolt on the left (outer) side of the battery to release the hold-down bar.

Pull the curved end (hook) at the top of the hold down bar out of its socket. Set the battery clamp aside in a safe place.

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Loosen Negative Terminal First
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Pull Off "-" Negative Terminal
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Red "+" Positive Terminal
I'd recommend wearing gloves for the next steps to help prevent from contacting the battery terminals or posts.

Loosen the nut on the negative "-" (black cable) terminal first by turning it counterclockwise with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

Pull the "-" negative terminal off the battery post, wrap it in a small towel and tuck it away on the side of the battery to prevent accidental contact.



 

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Loosen "+" Counter Clockwise
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Old Battery Tray & Shelf
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Pull Out Old 12V Battery
Loosen the nut on the "+" positive (red cable) terminal by turning it counterclockwise with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

Pull the "+" terminal off the positive battery post and place it out of the way to prevent accidental contact.

Carefully lift the old battery off the shelf and place it upright on the ground.

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OEM Part # 56041380AE
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Clean Off Battery Tray
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Insert New 12V Battery
The OEM Group Size 86 battery from Chrysler Group LLC is part number 56041380AE.

Clean off any debris from the black plastic battery tray so that the new battery will rest evenly on the shelf.

Carefully insert the new battery in to the wheel well with the "-" battery post furthest from you and the "+" terminal closest to you.

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Push On "+" Terminal
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Push On "-" Terminal
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Tighten 10mm Nut Clockwise
First push on the "+" terminal (red cable) on to the positive battery post which should be the closest one to you.

Tighten the "+" terminal by turning the 10mm nut clockwise until it is snug.

Do not over tighten the nut to prevent from damaging the terminal or the battery post.

Then replace the "-" negative (black cable) battery terminal over the negative battery post.

Tighten the "-" negative battery terminal by turning the 10mm nut in the clockwise direction.

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Line Up Battery Hold Down
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Hole In Metal
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Insert Hook Bar In Hole
Line up the hook at the top end of the battery hold-down bar with its triangular shaped socket to the right of the battery.

Re-insert the hook and lower the clamp down over the center of the battery.

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Line Up Bar & Bolt Hole
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Re-Insert 13mm Bolt
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Tighten 13mm Clockwise
Line up the bolt hole at the lower end of the battery hold-down bar and the hole in the metal shelf.

Re-insert the 13mm bolt and tighten it in the clockwise direction.

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Re-Insert Cross Brace Bolt
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Tighten 13mm Bolt
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Tighten Upper Bolt On Bar
Raise the lower end of the cross brace bar and line up the bolt holes.

Re-insert the 13mm bolt and tighten it in the clockwise direction.

Tighten the upper bolt on the cross brace bar in the clockwise direction.

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Cross Brace Bar Secured
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Line Up Plastic Liner
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Push In Plastic Fastener
Double check that both of the terminal nuts, the hold-down bar bolt and the cross brace bar bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

Re-insert the black plastic splash guard liner in to the wheel well and line up the fastener holes.

Make sure that the smaller center part of each plastic fastener is raised before pushing in the larger outer piece.

Then push in the smaller center part of the pop rivet fastener to secure it in place.

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Replace 7mm Screw
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Replace Other Pop Rivets
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Replace the three 7mm screws along the outer edge of the wheel well liner by turning them clockwise.
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7 Pop Rivets & 3 Screws
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Splash Guard Replaced
Make sure that all 7 of the plastic fasteners and the 3 screws are securely in place.
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Replace Front Wheel
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Push On Plastic Hub Cap
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Spin On 5 Lug Nuts
Replace the front wheel and push on the plastic hub cab with the cut out section for the tire valve in the correct position.

Spin on the 5 lug nuts by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

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Slightly Tighten Clockwise
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Lower Vehicle From Stands
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Torque To 100 ft-lbs
Slightly tighten the 5 lug nuts in a criss-cross or "star" pattern with the lug nut wrench.

Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Continue progressively tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a star pattern to about 1/4 turn past hand tight or 100 ft-lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Test the new 12V automotive battery by starting the engine and turning on the headlights.

I'd recommend checking that the lug nuts are still tight after your next trip.

For more, check out my other Chrysler 200 DIY Maintenance & Repair Guides.
 

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