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Mazda Mazda6 Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on a 3rd generation 2014 to 2018 Mazda 6 including the part numbers.

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2016 Mazda 6 Rear Wheel
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Electronic Parking Brake EPB
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Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts

This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the third generation (2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018) Mazda Mazda6 sedan in changing the rear disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other Mazda vehicles such as the Mazda2, Mazda3, Mazda5, CX-3, CX-5, CX-7, CX-9, and the MX-5 Miata may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools and other items needed to complete the procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet, a thin 17mm cone spanner wrench, a pair of needle nose pliers (or a Lisle # 28600 brake piston tool) and a tube of brake caliper grease.

A few compatible replacement sets of new rear brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner QC1679, TRW TPC1679, Power Stop Z23-1679 Z23, ProForce CRD1679, Beck Arnley 085-1960, Centric 105.16790, Raybestos EHT1679H and Monroe CX1679.

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Raise Rear of Car
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Remove Five Lug Nuts
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Spin Off Counterclockwise
The first two steps are to park the car on a level surface and turn off the ignition.

Make sure that the electronic (or "electric") parking brake has been released. If the EPB hasn't been released, you won't be able to pull the rear caliper out of the bracket.

Push down the EPB switch to release the parking brakes.

Place wheel chocks on both sides of the front wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the rear wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron.

Carefully raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety.

Spin off the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the rear wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

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Caliper, Bracket & Rotor
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Rear Brake Caliper
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17mm Wrench - Slider Pin
The rear brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts located on the back side of the caliper. The two bolt heads face in towards the trunk of the car.

Loosen the lower caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet.

If the caliper slider pin (or "guide bolt") spins as you are attempting to loosen the caliper bolt, hold it in place with a thin 17mm cone wrench (also known as a "spanner wrench" commonly used on bicycles).

Then loosen the upper 13mm caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the car).

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Loosen Two Caliper Bolts
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Remove Upper Caliper Bolt
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13mm Caliper Bolts Removed
Spin out the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.
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Lift Caliper Out of Bracket
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Rest On Suspension
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Remove Old Brake Pads
Carefully pull the caliper out of the bracket and off the old brake pads.

Try to avoid bending, kinking, pulling or stressing the rubber brake fluid hose.

Rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord or some twine.

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket and make a mental note of where the wear indicator bars or "squeal" bars are situated.

On this 2016 Mazda 6, the wear indicator bars were located at the top and bottom of both the inner and outer pads.

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Wear Bars - Top & Bottom
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Remove Caliper Slider Pins
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Lubricate & Replace Pins
In order for the brake caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Important - The upper and lower caliper slider pins are different. Avoid mixing them up. I recommend lubricating and replacing one at a time.

Pull the caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots attached to the bracket.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the smooth parts of each slider pin.

Push the slider pins back in to their rubber dust boots and spin them around to help spread the grease.



 

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Needle Nose Pliers
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Lisle 28600 Tool
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Install New Brake Pads
The 3rd generation Mazda 6 is equipped with "screw-in" type rear caliper pistons that need to be turned back rather than pushed in with a "C" or "F" clamp like traditional caliper pistons.

You can use either a pair of needle nose pliers or a Lisle 28600 disc brake piston tool with a 3/8" drive ratchet to rotate back the caliper piston.

Slowly turn the caliper piston in the clockwise direction until it is just about flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since inhaling brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads or the rotor.

 If your Mazda 6 previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first rear brake job on your car and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two 17mm bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

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Push Pads Against Rotor
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Lower Caliper Over Pads
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Spin In Top Caliper Bolt
Install the new outer and inner brake pads in to the bracket.

Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and in to the bracket.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins within the bracket.

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Re-Insert Bottom 13mm Bolt
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Hold Pin With 17mm Wrench
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Torque To 23-28 lb-ft
Spin in the two caliper bolts a few turns in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) to help prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the two top and bottom caliper bolts by turning them counterclockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet to just past hand tight or about 23 to 28 lb-ft of torque.

Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

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Rubber Valve Cap
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Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
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Replace Rear Wheel

If your brake pedal has previously been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old contaminated fluid and replace it with some fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.

For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the top caliper bolt.

Carefully replace the rear wheel.

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Spin On 5 Lug Nuts
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Slightly Tighten - Lower Car
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Torque To 80-108 lb-ft
Spin on the five lug nuts a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern.

Carefully lower the rear of the car from the jack stands by using the floor jack.

Continue progressively tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 80 to 108 lb-ft of torque (per the owner's manual specifications).

I usually tighten the lug nuts to somewhere in the middle of the range or about 85 to 95 lb-ft.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an electric impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Be sure to remove the wheel chocks from the front tires and record the brake pad change in your car's service records.

I'd also recommend verifying that the lug nuts are still tight after your first trip and every few weeks.

For more, check out my other 2014-2018 Mazda Mazda6 DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.
 

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