Ford Escape
Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on
a 3rd generation 2013 to 2016 Ford Escape with photo illustrated steps.
2015 Escape Rear Wheel |
Slightly Loosen 5 Lug Nuts |
Raise Rear of Vehicle |
This
automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist
owners of the 3rd generation (2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 and possibly also
the updated 2017 model year) Ford Escape SUV in changing the rear
disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins. Owners of other Ford or Lincoln vehicles such as the Focus, Fusion, C-Max, Mustang, Fiesta, Transit Connect, Edge, Flex, Explorer, Expedition, Taurus, F-150, EcoSport, MKC, MKZ, MKS, MKX, MKT and the Navigator may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The items needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a flat head screwdriver, a 7mm hex head socket with a ratchet or a 7mm Allen Key wrench, a disc brake piston tool set or a pair of needle nose pliers, and a tube of high temperature synthetic brake parts lubricant grease. Please verify the correct replacement part numbers for your Escape by consulting with a Ford dealership's parts counter, an auto parts store or the Amazon Part Finder website. The compatible parts may vary depending on whether your SUV has 2WD (two wheel drive), 4WD (four wheel drive / 4 wheel drive), the model year and/or the trim level. A few compatible replacement sets of new rear brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1564, ACDelco 17D1095CH, Akebono EUR1095, Dura International BP1095 C, StopTech 309.10950, Motorcraft BRF-13, Centric 105.10950, TRW TPC1564, Raybestos PGD1095C, ACDelco 14D1095CH, Power Stop 17-1095 Z17, Monroe DX1095 or CX1095. |
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Spin Off 5 Lug Nuts |
Five Lug Nuts Removed |
Caliper, Bracket, Rotor |
The
first few steps are to park the SUV on a level surface, turn off the engine
and make sure that the emergency / parking brake is not engaged.
If the emergency / parking brake is engaged, you won't be able to pull the rear caliper off the rotor. Chock both sides of the front wheels to prevent the car from being moved while you are replacing the rear brake pads. Slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the rear wheel by turning them counterclockwise about a 1/4 turn. Carefully raise the rear of the vehicle and securely support it with at least two jack stands. I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety. Spin off the five lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place. Remove the rear wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension. Set the rear wheel aside in a safe place. |
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Rear Brake Caliper |
Carefully Pry Off Metal Clip |
Spring Clip Removed |
Carefully pry off the metal spring clip attached to the outer edge of the
rear brake caliper with a flathead screwdriver. I would recommend wearing protective eye glasses just in case the metal spring clip flies off and hits you in the face. Set the spring clip aside in a safe place. |
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Pry Off Plastic Cap |
Bolt Cover Removed |
7mm Hex Caliper Bolt |
The
rear brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back
side of the caliper that are hidden by rubber dust covers. Gently pry out the round black plastic dust caps to expose the caliper bolts. Set the two caps aside in a safe place. |
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Loosen 7mm Clockwise |
Loosen Top Bolt |
Spin Out Caliper Bolt |
Loosen
the lower caliper bolt with a 7mm hex head socket and a ratcheting wrench
(or a 7mm Allen Key wrench) by turning it clockwise (as seen from the
outside of the vehicle). Then loosen the top 7mm hex head caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the SUV). |
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Top Caliper Bolt / Slider Pin |
Lower Bolt / Pin Removed |
Two Caliper Bolts / Pins |
Continue spinning out the two caliper bolts in the clockwise direction until
they can be removed. The caliper bolts also act as the caliper slider pins or "guide pins". Set the two combination caliper bolts and slider pins aside in a safe place. |
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Pull Off Rear Caliper |
Screw In Type Caliper Piston |
Remove Old Inner Pad |
Carefully pull the rear caliper out of the
bracket and off the old pads. Rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord. The third generation Ford Escape is equipped with screw-in type rear calipers that need to be turned back rather than "compressed" or "pushed" back like traditional caliper pistons. Remove the old inner and outer brake pads from the bracket and discard them. I've had great experiences with the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1564 ceramic brake pads, and I really like how they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel due to the built in insulators. |
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Pull Out Old Outer Pad |
Lisle 28600 Piston Tool |
Twist Off Reservoir Cap |
To turn
back the screw-in type caliper piston, you'll need either a brake piston
tool or a pair of needle nose pliers. My usual go to tool which is the Lisle 28600 disc brake piston tool didn't seem to have a side that had a good grip on the caliper piston. I was able to use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn back the piston. I'd recommend buying a disc brake piston tool set since I'm sure it would be easy than struggling with the needle nose pliers. Before turning back the piston, move to the right rear area of the engine bay and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction. Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the hose when you rotate back the piston. |
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Turn Back Caliper Piston |
Replace Brake Fluid Cap |
Install New Outer Pad |
If your
brake piston tool has a side where the nubs or pegs have a good grip on the
piston, use that to turn back the piston in the clockwise direction. Or use a pair of needle nose pliers to carefully and slowly turn back the piston in the clockwise direction until it is flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it. Repeatedly check the brake fluid level in the reservoir while you are compressing the piston to make sure that it doesn't over flow. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately and rinse the area with plenty of water. Brake fluid can easily damage painted surfaces. Replace the brake fluid cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (easily absorbs moisture from the air) by twisting it on in the clockwise direction. Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, lug nut studs and the brake caliper assembly with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled. If your Escape previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the SUV's first rear brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just change the pads with great results. To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Remove the bracket and set it aside in a safe place. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. The 2013 to 2019 Ford Escape service manual specification for tightening the rear caliper bracket bolts (also known as the "brake caliper anchor plate" bolts) is 46 lb-ft (or 63 N-m) of torque. Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper pistons. Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads or to the rotor. |
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Insert New Inner Pad |
Push Pads Against Rotor |
Lower Caliper Over Pads |
Install
the new inner and outer brake pads in to the bracket. Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor. Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the thicker new brake pads, you may need to turn back the piston a bit further. |
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Lubricate Caliper Slider Pins |
Tighten Counterclockwise |
Tighten Lower Caliper Bolt |
Apply a
thin layer of brake caliper grease to the smooth parts of the
caliper slider pins. Do not apply grease to the threads on the caliper bolts. Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the bracket. Spin in the two caliper bolts / slider pins a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the SUV) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. |
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Torque To 20 ft-lbs |
Pop In Bolt Caps |
Push In Top Bolt Cover |
Tighten
the two caliper bolts in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the
outside of the car) with the 7mm hex head socket or the 7mm Allen Key wrench
to just past hand tight or to the service manual specification of 21
lb-ft (or 28 Nm). Double check that both of the caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. Push the round black plastic dust covers back in to place over the bolt housings. |
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Re-Attach Metal Spring Clip |
Rubber Valve Cap |
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Carefully re-attach the metal spring clip to the outside edge of the
caliper. If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid might be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper next to the upper caliper bolt. |
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Push On Rear Wheel |
Spin On 5 Lug Nuts |
Turning Clockwise |
Carefully push on the rear wheel and spin on the 5 lug nuts in the clockwise direction a few turns by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. | ||
Lower Car From Stands |
Torque To 100 ft-lbs |
Rear Brake Pads Replaced |
Slightly tighten
the 5 lug nuts in a star or "criss cross" pattern. Carefully lower the SUV from the jack stands by using the floor jack. Continue tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 100 lb-ft of torque as specified in the owner's manual. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a 100 lb-ft torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts. Sit in the driver's seat of the car and firmly press the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some fresh DOT 4 fluid. To break in your new rear brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well. It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug bolts are still tight. Be sure to record the rear brake pad change in your Escape's service records. For more,
check out my other
2013-2016 Ford Escape DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
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