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Dodge Charger Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on a 7th generation 2011 to 2014 Dodge Charger with photo illustrated steps.

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2014 Charger Rear Wheel
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Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts
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Raise Rear of Vehicle

This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the seventh generation (2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 & possibly also the revised 2015) Dodge Charger sedan in changing the rear disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other Chrysler, Dodge and RAM vehicles such as the Town & Country, 300, 200, Avenger, Challenger, Journey, Dart, Durango, Grand Caravan, and Ram C/V Tradesman minivan may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, a thin 18mm cone spanner wrench, a "C" clamp and a tube of synthetic brake parts lubricant grease.

A few compatible replacement sets of new rear brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Wagner ZD1057 or PD1057, Bosch BP1057, StopTech 309.10530, Centric 105.10571, Power Stop 16-1057, ACDelco 17D1057C or 14D1057C, Monroe CX1057 and Akebono ACT1057.


Please verify the correct replacement brake pad part numbers for your vehicle since they may vary depending on the model year, whether it has AWD (All Wheel Drive) or RWD (Rear Wheel Drive) and/or the trim level (SXT, R/T, SE).

I'd recommend calling your dealership's parts counter, consult with the manufacturer online application guides, call an auto parts store or use the Amazon Part Finder website.

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Spin Off Counterclockwise
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5 Lug Nuts Removed
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Rotor, Bracket & Caliper
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, make sure that the emergency / parking brake is not engaged and chock the front wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Then slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the rear wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron.

Raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time to keep the other three wheels on the ground for extra safety.

Continue spinning off the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the rear wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

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2 Bolts On Back of Caliper
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Hold Pin With 18mm
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Loosen Upper 15mm Bolt
The rear brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side facing towards the center of the car.

Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 15mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

If the caliper slider pin rotates as you are trying to loosen the caliper bolt, hold it in place with a thin 18mm cone spanner wrench.

Then loosen the lower 15mm caliper bolt by rotating it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

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Loosen Lower Caliper Bolt
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Spin Out Caliper Bolt
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Remove Upper 15mm Bolt
Continue spinning out the two caliper slider bolts by hand.

Set them aside in a safe place.

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Pull Off Brake Caliper
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Rest Caliper On Suspension
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Or Suspend From Bungee
Pull the caliper out of the bracket and carefully rest it on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord.

If you have trouble removing the caliper from the bracket or off the old pads, double check that the emergency / parking brake has been released.

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Remove Old Outer Pad
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Remove Old Inner Pad
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Replace Pad Abutment Clips
Pull the old outer and inner brake pads out of the bracket.

Make a mental note of where the wear indicator bars or "squeal" bars are situated on the old brake pads.

On this 2014 Charger, the wear bars were located at the bottom of the outer pad and at the top of the inner pad.

I'd recommend using the Wagner ThermoQuiet PD1057 brake pads since they have great reviews on Amazon and require no shims or disc quiet gel.

If your new set of rear brake pads included replacement hardware, pull the old metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips from the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones in their place.

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Pull Out Lower Caliper Slider
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Lube & Replace Slider Pins
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Attach "C" Clamp To Piston
In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins installed in the bracket need to be well lubricated.

Carefully pull the upper and lower caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots, apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to each before pushing them back in place.

In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be compressed back.

Attach the "C" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston.

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Reservoir Access Door
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Open Access Panel
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Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
Move to the right rear area of the engine bay (close to the driver's seat) and open the brake fluid reservoir access panel on the cowl.

Twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the hose when you compress the piston.



 

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Compress Back Caliper Piston
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Replace Brake Fluid Cap
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Snap In Access Cover
Slowly turn the "C" clamp handle in the clockwise direction to push the piston back in to the caliper.

Continue compressing the piston until it is flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it.

Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot.

Replace the reservoir cap as soon as possible by twisting it on the clockwise direction since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture from the air).

Close the plastic brake fluid reservoir access cover.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake parts lubricant grease to the friction surface of the new pads or the rotors.

If your Charger previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first rear brake job on your car and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

Many owners are able to use the OEM rotors for 2 to 3 brake pad changes or "pad slaps". If you have any doubts, measure the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer and compare the results to the minimal thickness specification in the service manual.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

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Wear Bar - Bottom Outer Pad
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Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad
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Push Pads Against Rotor
Install the new outer brake pad in to the bracket with the wear bar situated at the bottom.

Install the new inner brake pad in to the bracket with the wear indicator bar situated at the top.

Push the two brake pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

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Lower Caliper Over Pads
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Spin In Upper Caliper Bolt
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Spin In Counterclockwise
Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and in to the bracket.

If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the slider pins within the bracket.

Spin the two caliper bolts by hand a few turns in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

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Tighten Lower 15mm Bolt
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Tighten Upper Caliper Bolt
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Rubber Valve Cap
Tighten the caliper bolts by rotating them counterclockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 15mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 23 ft-lbs of torque.

If the caliper slider pin starts to turn as you are attempting to tighten the brake caliper bolts, hold it in place with a thin 18mm cone spanner wrench.

Double check that both the upper and lower caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

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Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
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Push On Rear Wheel
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Spin On 5 Lug Nuts
Carefully replace the rear wheel and spin on the 5 lug nuts in the clockwise direction a few turns by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.
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Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
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Lower Car From Stands
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Torque To 110 ft-lbs
Slightly tighten the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss-cross" pattern with the tire iron.

Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Continue progressively tightening the lug nuts in the "star" pattern to about 1/8 to 1/4 turn past hand tight or 110 ft-lbs of torque.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new rear brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway or garage for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2011-2014 Dodge Charger DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.
 

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